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Model Rail issue 334 is now available!

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Model of the Year 2024

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Our new Sentinels are now available!

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THE ’16XX’ IS HERE!

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Working on a coal mine

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How To: Build a Classic Engine Shed Kit

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12 gifts for model railway fans

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Win a Hornby R1272M Freightmaster train set

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HOW TO USE HAIR TO CREATE A WATER FEATURE

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HOW TO BALLAST YOUR TRACK

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Modelling Against the Clock

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South Coast spectacular

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Ahead of the curve

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HOW TO PLAN & SET UP A MODEL SCENE

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Muck and Brass

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HOW TO GET THE BEST FROM CHEAP TREES

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HOW TO: USE GRASS MATS AS A BASE FOR REALISTIC SCENERY

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A layout with hex appeal

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Choosing the right location for your train set

Model of the Year

Voting

The Models

Magazine

Latest Issues

Online Features

Model Rail For Beginners

Workbench

Layouts

In the January 2025 issue of Model Rail we bring you three fabulous reader layouts from across the country to give you the perfect inspiration for your next project. We also review nine of the latest products to hit the shelves and, with the end of the year fast approaching, we give you the opportunity to vote for your favourite model of the last twelve months with our 2024 Model of the Year awards. Which model will you decide deserves one of our coveted awards? Finally, in workbench, Peter Marriott introduces a novel way to create snowy trees, Chris Nevard gets the best of a classic plastic kit, and Dave Lowery builds a brass Class 06.

It’s all in Model Rail issue 334, on sale now!

In each issue we cover every stage of the hobby, from buying a first model train set right through to museum standard fine-scale modelling. Model Rail magazine is full of helpful tips, advice on model train layouts, details on model train sets, step-by-step articles and more! Choose the right subscription option for you and get instant digital access to the latest issue. :a[View subscription offers]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=article_new_issue' }

#### Buying a pre-built layout worked out well for Andrew Morris, who soon realised he had something rather special on his hands. {#block-c2585385-bf27-4a9a-be0f-41d02c13754e}

Words: **Chris Gadsby** Photography: **Chris Nevard** Artwork: **Andrew Mackintosh** {#block-c294480b-f56b-4184-a6b7-f49a3a81ecfa}

#### **What makes this layout great?** {#block-15262390-94f8-41f7-bd97-6959a1446b5a}

**“Andrew has accomplished a delicate blend of old and new with this layout, making sure he stayed true to the one he bought while also adding his own flair for modelling.”** {#block-6ec82701-ba1a-46a6-947e-f31c318686f0}

Many of us have bought something on eBay at one point or another. It may be that you only dabble occasionally, or you might be checking it daily for new railway slides to try and add to your collection. The great thing about the site is that you can almost always get exactly what you need for an excellent price. It might be a part for your car, a birthday present, or, in Andrew Morris’ case, a model railway. {#block-3176bb7b-43fd-4865-a22e-d7c633bb73a0}

“This layout, which I have since named ‘Graig Merthyr’, was spotted online by my then-wife and it was located fairly close to me as we were living in Wales at the time. It seemed as though it would be perfect. I won the auction, headed up to have a look at it and was taken aback when I first saw it. Something didn’t seem right, but at first glance I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Then I realised – this isn’t ‘OO’ gauge!” {#block-1c711ae7-c2c1-481f-a947-fafb10cf44b0}

#### TRACK INSPECTION {#block-66b58e4c-7375-4a29-ba36-11531d599e7c}

For a second I felt disheartened, but upon closer inspection I discovered that no, it was the right gauge, but all the track had been handbuilt from C&L sections of track and Scaleway points with the correct sleeper spacing for ‘OO’ gauge. It really threw my eye when I first looked at it. When I got the layout home and could give it a proper inspection, the same trackwork that had originally thrown me off completely blew me away. The quality of the work was astounding and encouraged me to up my game when it came to adding the extension. I’m not a rivet counter by any means, but still wanted a reasonable representation of a railway and couldn’t let the layout transition from stunning handbuilt track to off‐the‐shelf pieces.” {#block-cc178273-4962-47d6-9175-182ec86c4dba}

Within three months of ‘Graig Merthyr’ (the name taken from a colliery local to Andrew) changing home, Andrew had decided to extend it. {#block-09780e92-ed47-4012-a2bb-42e7357c40cd}

“The fiddleyard that came with the layout was a little travel-worn and the join between the fiddleyard and the scenic section consisted of a small piece which was, in my opinion, poorly done. It looked as though it was an afterthought. It did mean though that I had the perfect excuse to take it out, improve it, and add an extension at the same time. Since the layout is Welsh I opted to go down the coal route for the extension and elected to incorporate a bridge that would lead to another colliery and act as a scenic break. Rather than have the bridge right at the end of the scenic section as many modellers do, I chose to put it a foot or so inside the scenic section so that trains would disappear into the distance, rather than into a tunnel. The bridge is reasonably accurate for one I saw in the local area as I took plenty of photographs and counted the bricks to make the model.” {#block-c77545f3-7bea-4a93-80df-73ef9e07e125}

#### KEEPING IT REAL {#block-b01fd46f-052b-4d90-9bfc-e395c30be83e}

When you buy a layout second-hand you can rip it all up and just use the baseboards, or you can keep everything as close as possible to the original design. {#block-5b12220d-3909-455e-a2f9-776741407ecc}

Andrew decided that the latter was the better option and kept everything as original as he could up to the Portakabin, which marks where old meets new. {#block-4ac48f5f-4f2c-46d2-8893-e40c3e36142d}

“If you’re going to buy a layout and then rip all of it out then you might as well have just started from scratch in the first place! The only significant part of the original layout I’ve changed is the old steam shed, which I’ve converted into a modern fuel point as I run the layout in the BR blue era of the 1980s. With my collection I could run it anywhere from the mid-1960s onwards. I’ve tried my best to find information about when and how the layout was first built and have come up with absolutely nothing. All I’ve been able to do is guess that it was built around the 1980s, given the products used and the dates on the few boxes that I do have from the purchase. The station area still has points controlled by H&M point motors which are very old and give a really heavy clunk when they move, but they’re pretty robust. I’ve never had any problems with them. Overall, the buildings have aged reasonably well and I’ve not had to do anything other than replace the odd missing chimney pot, and lights have been added to the platform to put my own mark on the area, but with the build quality so good in the first place, why change it?” {#block-ddb5cfbc-c50f-4a79-b402-75dd70137e3b}

Having such a good base to work with meant that Andrew could spend much more of his time on the finer details of the layout, using ideas that occur to him while he’s driving as inspiration. {#block-6ad315ec-d50b-4e9d-8c26-1a250fd16c5e}

“These details come from my memories of the area that was heavily attacked during the war. The bomb crater on top of the hill is a prime example. Today, they have all grown over, but if you go for a walk in the local valleys, you reach one and can tell by the circular nature of it and its size that nobody has dug that by hand. The manhole cover in the street allows a nice view of the sewer pipe below and those pipes have remained in my mind for a long time. When I was a boy, my friends and I used to go and play in some of the industrialised areas and we’d see these pipes. Never sure what was coming out of them as it clearly wasn’t water or sewage, we made the decision not to touch it as it was probably some industrial chemical. There weren’t the water regulations there are now. {#block-fcf857e1-c460-4879-8ef3-24f79568439b}

“I made a change to the fiddleyard earlier this year, bringing it from a 6ft straight one to a 4ft traverser, but I think now that the layout is complete. I’m certainly not extending it again now that it’s 24ft long. Of course, it takes some dedicated modelling professionals to help everybody’s layout come together so I’d like to thank Justin at Scale Model Scenery, as well as Martin and Rhys at WWS for their assistance during the build, and a special thank you goes to Chris at West Hill Wagon Works who rushed through an order for me when I realised something was missing right before Chris Nevard came to take the photographs!” {#block-e1df3825-c54d-44b5-931f-940620a56e88}

A quick eBay search shows that there are plenty of model railways for sale at the moment, and at prices to suit almost every budget. Whether you’re looking for something that’s ready to go or something that you can build upon without having to come up with a fresh idea of your own, why not have a browse and see what’s available? You might just grab yourself a bargain along the way. {#block-9101a1d9-5813-44d9-8f14-3f0c1a5e169e}

#### RAIL CRANES {#block-591bf83f-af7d-45d2-b4bf-61ea89af6fde}

Andrew has tried to lean on his experience working on the railway as much as possible with ‘Graig Merthyr’, and that includes his cranes. {#block-be8403f8-13db-4ee6-979f-3088d813d3c0}

“I wanted to include some things that not everybody has. It’s easy to buy things off a shelf but I wanted something a little bit different and cranes just seem to be my thing. The Plasser single jib crane is a resin cast kit which was a lovely kit to assemble and travels impeccably on the track because it weighs a ton! There’s also a crane I used to work on as an apprentice. This one is a Dapol kit on which I’ve made a slight alteration to the chassis to turn it into a rigid eight-wheel vehicle and I’ve adjusted the cab to give it a sloping roof rather than a flat one, as well as adding wire handrails. The match truck that goes with it was also a cheap find from Ratio that I’ve altered the jib length on as it was slightly inaccurate. {#block-cdd40931-b9ca-47b7-a04f-2c2f15aad7c9}

“The salmon wagon cranes were scratchbuilt but I have since found out that West Hill Wagon Works are making those cranes and generators, which is handy because I have another four wagons that need to be craned up. The next project is to make some long welded rail to go on the beds of the wagons which are long enough but flexible enough to go on the curves of the layout. I’ve tried a few things already but have not yet found a material which looks like rail, but bends enough to go round the curves. {#block-7ba3ddf6-7155-4b8f-9e3b-c7e43d53ee8e}

### **3 things we like** {#block-66fdfc51-e646-4d4e-b635-d6b4efe33746}

#### **FACTFILE: ‘GRAIG METHYR’** {#block-02616363-3def-45df-9884-9a00e2b7803d}

#### **ABOUT THE MODELLER: ANDREW MORRIS** {#block-e9a530fa-6a64-4a77-a789-b20022eab420}

“I work for GWR at Longrock depot, but when I’m away from the railways, either full ‐size or miniature, I get out with my Welsh sheepdog as she is a ball of non-stop energy! Our favourite walk is along the beach as she loves the sea.” {#block-345cb321-e0ad-4cd6-826f-deb00a0d4051}

What a fascinating year it has been, with an impressive array of top-quality ready-to-run locomotives and rolling stock appearing across the various scales.

As usual, modellers in ‘OO’ have been particularly spoiled for choice with a host of classic diesel and electric traction types, plus a few ‘oddballs’, while the steam era hasn’t been overlooked, with several interesting prototypes being offered for the first time.

While it’s been another quiet year for ‘OO9’ narrow gauge, the expansion of ‘TT:120’ has been fascinating to witness. The ‘Tabletop’ scale has remained the domain of just two manufacturers this year but, with Revolution Trains due to enter the fray, 2025 is lining up to be another good year for ‘TT:120’.

It has also been a modest year for new ‘N’ gauge locomotive releases, although some exceptional 2mm scale carriages and wagons did reach the market. ‘O’ gauge continues to attract new acolytes, helped by diesel and steam-outline locomotives big and small. Narrow gauge modelling in 7mm scale becomes increasingly viable, thanks to another manufacturer dipping its toe into the waters.

Our Model of the Year awards began in 2006 and offer you, the reader, a chance to acknowledge the amazing effort that manufacturers put into their products, as well as offering us a useful barometer of public opinion.

Voting is completely free and open to everyone, with each nominee consisting of a new ready-to-run model that has appeared over the calendar year, and which has been reviewed in _Model Rail_ in 2024. This includes all-new and revised toolings, including those receiving enhancements to mechanisms, electronics and detail specifications.

Categories are spread across each of the popular scales, featuring locomotives and rolling stock. For the first time, we’ve included ‘TT:120’ products, now that the scope of products has increased dramatically this year.

Due to its popularity, we have retained the option to vote for your favourite model retailer, with two categories to help differentiate larger concerns from smaller, local businesses. We’ve also been squirrelling away an amazing array of goodies for our bumper prize draw, worth well over £3,500, with free entry for everyone who votes in _Model Rail’s_ Model of the Year 2024 awards.

This is YOUR chance to recognise the hard work, dedication and innovation of those at the heart of our wonderful hobby… so cast your votes today!

**WIN!** **MODEL OF THE YEAR MEGA PRIZE DRAW**

Every reader who casts a vote in our Model of the Year 2024 awards will be automatically entered into a bumper prize draw, with a huge range of locomotives, carriages, wagons and buildings up for grabs, in ‘N’, ‘OO’, ‘TT:120’ and ‘O’ gauge, plus a Gaugemaster Infinity Sovereign DCC control system (as reviewed on page 91).

Gaugemaster infinity Sovereign DCC Starter set

Dapol 2D-005-005 Class 59, 59001 Yeoman Endeavour, Aggregate Industries

Graham Farish 372-916 LMS ‘Twin’ 10000, BR green

Graham Farish 377-615 MXA ‘Lobster’ wagon, DB red

Graham Farish 378-027 SE&CR ‘Dance Hall’ brake van, BR grey

Graham Farish 378-002A 14T Class A anchor-mounted tank wagon, National Benzole

Rapido Trains UK 942009 SECR wagon pack, SR post-1936 livery

EFE Rail E82001 SR ‘Booster’ CC1, SR grey

Heljan 5711 Class 57 57604 Pendennis Castle, GWR green

Hornby R30126 LNER Class W1 ‘Hush-Hush’, No. 10000, LNER grey/silver

Hornby R30136 LNER Class B17/5, No. 2859 East Anglian, LNER green

Hornby LMS Fowler Class 4P, No. 2300, LMS crimson

Hornby R30114, SR ‘West Country’ No. 34046 Braunton, BR green

Hornby R30359 LMS ‘Princess Coronation’, No. 46243 City of Lancaster, BR blue

Hornby R40440/1/2/3/4 Mk 3 HST coaches, Grand Central

Hornby Skaledale R7391 Dunster station building

Hornby Skaledale R7392 Dunster goods shed

Hornby Skaledale R7394 Dunster engine shed

Rapido Trains UK 945002 LNWR 10ton van, LNWR grey

Hornby TT3009M LNER Class A4, No. 60025 Falcon, BR blue

Dapol 7F-062-005 Class A tank wagon, Regent silver

Winners will be drawn at random after the **voting closes on February 16 2025** **at 11:59pm**.

Entry into the prize draw is via the Model of the Year voting website only and we reserve the right to allocate prizes at our discretion.

https://xd.wayin.com/embed/7271d578-c22f-4a01-bf36-939e5c341686?mode=responsive&scrolling=no

#### **Chris Nevard** sees what he can do with an old favourite plastic kit, which dates back to the Airfix range from the 1960s. {#block-dd276b95-875d-4983-af32-9459937be47e}

PHOTOGRAPHY: **CHRIS NEVARD** {#block-796baad7-9453-4a37-a81c-08a30247442c}

The Dapol Engine Shed kit was originally released as part of the Airfix ‘Trackside Series’, around 1960. That’s the same year that British Railways was building its final steam locomotives, so you could say that it’s a kit from the steam age – just about! {#block-8e52ce86-16c1-40ce-85bc-1fa891185e46}

This plastic kit is often overlooked these days, with so many other offerings in this area. Indeed, there are so many resin, card, plastic, laser-cut timber and now even 3D-printed engine sheds in 4mm scale, in kit and ready-toplant form. Sometimes though, when faced with a bewildering array of choice, it’s good to go back to one’s roots and remember the older kits from days gone by. {#block-72c8634b-09b0-4321-9db9-4c998140f53a}

The Dapol kit is still freely available from model shops and Dapol stockists, now packaged under the famous old Kitmaster brand name. The moulding tools may be classed as vintage, but the kit is still definitely worth experimenting with, not least due to its bargain price, which at the time of writing was under £12 (although it’s often seen on sale for less than a tenner). Looking on eBay and similar online sites, there are also plenty of the old Airfix versions still available, too, if you fancy a full-on vintage experience. {#block-0886abbb-7e23-4b12-9c22-13a402078f7c}

There’s also the likelihood that older kits will feature less in the way of ‘flash’ on the components, as the tooling was less worn. Indeed, it’s noted in the current kit’s comprehensive instructions that, owing to the age of the tooling, one must be prepared to do a little more tidying up before assembly than with more modern kits. {#block-508fc128-8909-4d42-aacc-c0975b1ec024}

A definite advantage of this (and similar) kits is that the injection-moulded plastic parts are easy to work with. They can be bonded securely with liquid poly cement, and the pliable material can be modified with a knife, drill and files. Multiple kits can be joined together and there’s plenty of opportunity to add extra exterior and interior details. {#block-8f7ee695-2b55-4b81-be7d-4f28977e338b}

With a little work, the kit can be made to look great if you accept that it will take a little more effort to complete than, say, a Wills or Ratio kit. And I hope you agree that it does have fabulous character with a hint of whimsy – something that appeals to me anyway. {#block-451c837f-4207-4515-8b2e-e9eb90fd8650}

And my final thought is that the bottom of the doors do sit rather high above the ground. I presume this allows for tinplate track-work which would have been common in the 1960s. I might graft on a bit of extra material to the base of the doors at some point to remedy this – literal – shortfall. {#block-760f5be6-893a-4841-9135-05f915a9b179}

Anyway, next time you’re browsing in your local model shop, look out for one of these kits and treat yourself to a cheap and very enjoyable assembly and painting project. {#block-cf6037d0-c84a-4293-96a0-3b7dee6c33d4}

#### What you will need {#block-c23895fd-93d1-40a6-9fa2-b81553e75e20}

**SHOPPING LIST** {#block-5a1cef8f-20b1-4066-9e7f-963d0ee8f517}

◆ Slater’s Plastikard 2mm plain plastic sheet, 7mm Scale Corrugated sheet (437) **Availability:** Model shops **Web:** _:a[www.slatersplastikard.com]{href='https://www.slatersplastikard.com/' }_ {#block-3cb3c9a3-f932-45f1-a2e9-a00fe6c5228b}

◆Grey, Red, Filler (yellow) primers and Matt Black aerosol paints **Availability:** Halfords stores **Web:** _:a[www.halfords.com]{href='https://www.halfords.com/' }_ {#block-2977883b-7b6a-4e58-88ab-0a7475765aaf}

◆A selection of brick red, yellow ochre, brown and beige matt enamel or interior matt emulsion testers • black poster paint. **Availability:** Hardware/craft stores {#block-1a022f1a-4c4c-4603-9c5c-700ecaf8d102}

◆ Styrene Solvent, such as Plastic Magic by Deluxe Materials **Availability:** Model shops **Web:** _:a[www.deluxematerials.co.uk]{href='https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/' }_ {#block-c3e1d035-1257-4128-82df-fd0e8fc8775c}

**TOOLS** {#block-61c42940-eabd-4b99-9435-e52415794415}

◆ Scalpel or hobby craft knife with spare blades {#block-3841687f-82d3-414c-9da3-8cab18ad6d79}

◆ Needle file or disposable nail file {#block-e1535158-1152-4ee7-8548-46d18f770236}

◆ Metal ruler {#block-8c23e39c-c943-4a33-ae0a-a6ed70b5afb2}

◆ Cutting mat {#block-83c2fa21-3f25-41f5-a958-af890a8f9c7d}

◆ Paper masking tape {#block-240ad51d-c1f6-4e91-839b-65d3d9e0d140}

#### **STEP BY STEP** {#block-8cee3cb9-5e60-435a-91d4-2d3c76d53bb5}

**1** The first job is to identify all the components while looking at the exploded view diagram, noting the disclaimer about numbers on parts not necessarily matching those of the instructions! But, with relatively few parts, this is not a big deal.

**2** Once all the components have been identified, the next task is to clean up the mouldings which have quite a bit of flash. Needle files or emery files are ideal tools for this job.

**3** The window frames and doors were the worst affected, with lots of excess plastic seeping between the tools during the moulding process, owing to the age of the tooling. Cleaning these parts was time-consuming.

**4** Initially, I tackled the window frames with a flat needle file, which reached within the latticework easily. Wear a mask and vacuum away the dust at intervals to avoid inhaling the fine powdered plastic.

**5** I also found that scraping the surfaces with a fresh scalpel blade helped remove waste. The flat file was better for achieving true straight lines and square corners, so combining the two techniques was helpful.

**6** After the scraping and filing, the plastic parts can still look ragged, but a neat trick for achieving a smoother edge is to paint some liquid poly cement over the surface. This dissolves the tiny burrs into the plastic.

**7** Assembly began by bonding one side wall to the rear, doing a ‘dry’ run first to ensure the parts fit neatly. Apply solvent from the inside and check the walls stand vertically and the corner joint is set at 90º.

**8 NOTE:** Don’t remove what looks like sprue from the round aperture on the front wall, as this forms part of the support framework for the ventilation fan. Take care when removing the flash from these parts…

**9** Enough material must be removed to allow the propeller-type fan to fit into place. It took me a few attempts to get it right, as the framework is quite delicate, so handle with care once in place.

**10** The front wall was bonded to the other side, checking the angles. When the cement had cured, the two halves of the structure were brought together. At this stage it was clear that the walls were warped and quite bendy.

**11** When the four walls had cured, I added interior supports, cutting strips from a sheet of 2mm thick plastic card. They were cut with a stout trimming knife, using several cuts against a steel rule to work through the thick material.

**12** Having cut two strips to length, to fit within the side walls, they were glued to the inner top edge and held in place with spring clamps until the cement cured, working on one side at a time.

**13** The process was repeated by adding shorter strips of 2mm thick plastic card to the inside of the end walls, sat atop the side strengtheners. Once these were bonded, the walls were straight, and the structure was much sturdier.

**14** After adding the intermediate roof support truss, the next job was to attach the roof sections, which slot inside of the outer walls. As a result, the moulded slates don’t go all the way to the end of the wall, which I found unsightly.

**15** I wonder if this is to allow multiple kits to be joined together for a longer shed? Anyway, one solution would be to apply a layer of laser-cut roof slates from Scale Model Scenery _(:a[www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk]{href='https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/' }_ ).

**16** Instead, I decided to represent corrugated asbestos roofing, suggesting that the building had been repaired at some point. For this I used some Slater’s Plastikard 7mm scale corrugated sheet (ref. 437).

**17** The textured sheet was cut into sections to treat all four roof panels, with the corrugations oriented vertically. I applied the sheet upside-down, preferring the softer wavy look of the underside.

**18** The doors both featured ugly round injector pin parks on the interior bracing. Filling and sanding these would be a pain, so a quick fix was made by adding a strip of super ‐thin plastic card over the top.

**19** Note the lintels over the windows. These are not supplied with the kit but were easy to form from strips of thin plastic and add some extra interest to the structure. When the glue was dry, the building was cleaned, ready for priming.

**20** I primed the building with my usual mix of Halfords primers – grey, red oxide, filler (yellow) and matt black – blending light layers to create a mucky undercoat. I spray from around three feet away, which gives the model a slightly rough key for the next step. From above, I blasted a little grey primer, the idea being that the upper surfaces are a little paler. Be sure to work outside and wear a facemask, as these paints can be hazardous to your health if inhaled.

**21** I’ve explained my methods for painting brickwork before (see last month’s issue) but, in a nutshell, it involves dry-brushing colours from a very lightly loaded brush. The pigment doesn’t get into all the crevices. Here’s my messy mixing plate, with a blend of artist’s acrylics and matt household emulsion. Probably not the best paints, but I tend to use what I have to hand. If starting from scratch, matt modellers’ enamel is the best for dry-brushing, in that you can ‘work the paint’ to achieve the desired result, although they take hours to dry.

**22** The finishing touch is a little dry-brushed dark beige, it softens everything and works particularly well, bringing out the detail of the asbestos roof.

**23** A grey-beige shade, dry-brushed over the windows, helps to bring out the surface relief in the frames.

**24** Lintels were masked with strips of low-tack tape, then dry-brushed with a pale grey/beige to suggest concrete or stone.

**25** After painting the doors, they were coated in watered-down black poster paint, which was quickly dabbed off with a bit of kitchen tissue, leaving the dark pigment in the crevices.

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#### Wondering what gifts to buy for your fellow railway modellers – or yourself? **George Dent** marks the 12 days of Christmas with a dozen suggestions for stocking fillers and more substantial treats.

Postcard Models is a family business, producing a delightful range of laser-cut building kits in various scales, each designed to fit within postcard-sized packaging. They’re great fun to assemble and depict fabulous prototype structures from various parts of ritain, but especially those with a Kent or Sussex flavour.

This lovely ‘N’ gauge kit of Bodiam station, on the Kent and East Sussex Railway, features plenty of detail and an authentic timber grain texture. The platform canopy is included, and the kit provided an enjoyable evening project – it’ll be just the thing for helping your

Christmas pudding digest! And for something a little more whimsical, why not plump for a kit of Brighton Pier’s iconic Helter Skelter, or the Art Deco tower from Margate Lido.

Add festive cheer to your layout with these new Christmas-themed packs from Modelu. As well as Santa driving his reindeer sleigh with a sack of presents in tow, there’s also a more pagan Victorian Father Christmas figure, plus a pack of gifts (including a steam loco). There’s even a very cute trio of snowmen.

All are 3D-printed and are available in virtually any scale, from ‘N’ gauge upwards. All you need to do is paint them.

I’ve only recently discovered GodHand tools and they’re superb, combining high ‐quality materials and modeller-friendly design. While cheaper tweezers are freely available, few are as good and reliable as this set.

Crafted in Japan from high grade stainless steel, this set of tapered tweezers sits comfortably in the hand and the fine tips align perfectly without deforming, ensuring a firm grip of even the smallest object, drastically reducing the risk of the part flying off into the abyss of the carpet. Once you’ve tried these, you’ll avoid cheap tweezers like the plague!

The festive holidays are a great time to learn new modelling skills, so an airbrush starter set would make an ideal gift. This Sparmax kit provides all you need to get started, in the form of a handy little ARISM compressor, which is pretty quiet in operation and, at just 160mm long by 90mm wide, it’s ultra-portable too. It features a pressure regulator and even sports a Christmassy sparkling red finish!

A Sparmax MAX-3 airbrush is provided, along with a storage wallet and 2 metre braided hose. Extra accessories include a glass cleaning pot (with spare air filters) with built-in airbrush holder and a set of cleaning tools. As a bonus, a pair of Christmas-themed stencils, acrylic paints and jar of cleaning fluid are also included. The

MAX-3 is one of the best budget airbrushes around, and the 0.3mm diameter nozzle makes it great for working on smaller models or for detailed weathering jobs.

Low ‐relief buildings are a key feature of so many layouts and these user-friendly kits from Scale Model Scenery provide an enjoyable assembly project – and superb results. The laser-cut MDF structure slots together easily, with printed overlays providing a convincing brick texture (there’s also an option of whitewashed stone for the ‘Backs’ kit). The sash windows are assembled from various layers to provide convincing depth and plenty of smaller details are provided, including gutters and downpipes, along with pre ‐weathered roof slates.

Building a row of these cottages will provide the perfect backscene to a layout or diorama, and the kits offer plenty of scope for customisation and adding interior detail, and lighting too, perhaps.

Do you have plans to tackle one of those brass kits you’ve squirrelled away, or take care of some electrical repairs? If so, this tool will make life so much easier, solving the modeller’s perennial problem of a lack of a third hand.

Four adjustable gooseneck arms, each fitted with a spring clamp, are fitted into a sturdy metal base, allowing components to be held securely and leaving your hands free. Ensuring parts do not move during the soldering process is essential for avoiding ‘dry’ joints, so this tool will definitely prove its worth.

Additionally, the base is equipped with a sponge and wire cleaning ball for keeping your iron’s tip clean, plus a jar of rosin flux. There’s also a handy spindle which can be wrapped with solder to act as a handy dispenser.

Spread over two separate, landscape format volumes, these collections of old photographs are a joy to browse. Northern England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland feature in one volume, while Southern England is the subject of the other. Each hardback book contains over 100 black and white images of historic locomotives in a wide variety of locations and settings, all captured during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Many of the images are published for the first time and the captions and early chapters provide plenty of useful information about steam locomotive development.

As well as standard gauge railways, narrow gauge and light railways also feature, with many well-known railway companies and locomotive types covered, but also plenty of more obscure and esoteric subjects, such as the Jersey Railway, Liskeard & Caradon, and the Easingwold Light Railway.

The geographic demarcation of subject matter across the volumes is a bit hit and miss (is Liskeard in Northern England?). However, the focus of each book is firmly on the locomotive types and there are plenty of weird and wonderful designs I hadn’t seen before, some of which would look equally at home in a Wild West movie. Perfect fireside reading material.

I’ve given up on cheap straight shank twist drill bits, as the smaller diameter bits invariably break and the cutting edges dull quickly when used for cutting into nickel silver, brass or whitemetal. Larger diameter shanks may reduce the working length of a bit, but do provide more resilience, and this set of bits from GodHand have proved the best so far.

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