feature-img.png

Model Rail issue 335 is now available!

MDR-Jan-Sale-BWS-Image.jpg

Subscribe to Model Rail Magazine

feature-image-1.png

Model of the Year 2024

Steam-Article-1.jpg

Enjoy FREE Digital access to Steam Railway!

MR-Article-Size.jpg

Enjoy FREE digital access to Model Rail!

MR-021-pic-2-scaled.jpg

Our new Sentinels are now available!

Pannier Pic 1_preview.jpg

THE ’16XX’ IS HERE!

Display_BWS_1600x900px_A-1.jpg

ModelRailOffers.co.uk

491ef4fe-1268-41d4-b21a-6f1b8cafe981.jpg

HOW TO: KEEP YOUR RAILS CLEAN

240122-Graig-Merthyr-DSC_4581.jpg

Working on a coal mine

pic-1.jpg

How To: Build a Classic Engine Shed Kit

TrainSetXmasGift.png

12 gifts for model railway fans

1-1.jpg

HOW TO USE HAIR TO CREATE A WATER FEATURE

055ccbd2-f53c-4132-b349-bd6cb8a8499a.jpg

HOW TO BALLAST YOUR TRACK

21be057f-54dc-4d18-96b7-0b197fd91c0b-1.jpg

Modelling Against the Clock

09e1b7c9-a91d-4d28-b7aa-cd754529f624-1.jpg

South Coast spectacular

48e40eac-711e-4d9b-b1a6-9692d48f1033.jpg

Ahead of the curve

MR332_Workbench_Layout-Planning_Pic001_Paul-Bambrick-1.jpg

HOW TO PLAN & SET UP A MODEL SCENE

230927-Brian-De-La-Cour-Layout-IMG_2913-3.jpg

Muck and Brass

MR332_Workbench_Basic-trees_Pic001_Peter-Marriott-1.jpg

HOW TO GET THE BEST FROM CHEAP TREES

99ee2b35-e8d3-4886-bc0e-6fef00a71045-1.jpg

HOW TO: USE GRASS MATS AS A BASE FOR REALISTIC SCENERY

copper_wort_feature.jpg

A layout with hex appeal

choosing-the-right-location1.jpg

Choosing the right location for your train set

Model of the Year

Voting

The Models

Magazine

Latest Issues

Online Features

Model Rail For Beginners

Workbench

Layouts

**:a[ModelRailOffers.co.uk]{href='https://www.modelrailoffers.co.uk/?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=modelrail_offers&amp;utm_content=article' } is the only place to find unique models by Model Rail magazine**. Find the right model for you and your layout by choosing from a variety of diesel and steam locomotives. With FREE UK delivery and Worldwide shipping available, treat yourself or gift a modeller in your life to a new model.

## **If you subscribe to Model Rail magazine, you unlock special subscriber pricing which gives you even further discount across ALL of our models!\*** :a[View subscription offers]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=article_modelrail_offers' }.

:a[Browse now for your next model]{href='https://www.modelrailoffers.co.uk/?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=modelrail_offers&amp;utm_content=article' }

\*Special subscriber pricing is valid until 30.12.2024. From 1st January 2025 subscriber discount will return to the standard 10% off a model.

In the February issue of Model Rail Chris Nevard begins a new build of a rural Devonshire halt and Peter Marriott creates a snippet of the West Highland Railway line in our Workbench section. As always we feature two stunning layouts from our readers, this month Rob Elliott tells us about his third rendition of ‘Lostwithiel’ and Dave Finney outlines how he created a shunting layout from offcuts and spares around his railway room. Ben Ando discusses the problems manufacturers can face with customer service over the Christmas period and Ben Jones highlights some of the latest developments on the real railways that we might see on our layouts in the next few years. We also review eight of the latest models to hit the shelves.

It’s all in Model Rail issue 335, on sale now!

In each issue we cover every stage of the hobby, from buying a first model train set right through to museum standard fine-scale modelling. Model Rail magazine is full of helpful tips, advice on model train layouts, details on model train sets, step-by-step articles and more! Choose the right subscription option for you and get instant digital access to the latest issue. :a[View subscription offers]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=article_new_issue' }

#### Clean contact surfaces are vital to ensuring reliable layout operation. **George Dent** offers some simple tips to help keep your trains moving, and trials a new rail cleaning fluid. {#block-97b3861a-e3b8-4cf5-93f9-a9136799db4c}

PHOTOGRAPHY: **GEORGE DENT** {#block-e33febe5-a88a-4353-835b-7e18e24b4d75}

Track-cleaning is a necessary chore for any model railway, even if your layout is kept under dust covers when out of use. Whether it’s generic dust from the railway room or exhibition hall, stray paint deposits, or oil and grease dropped by passing locomotives, our track is inevitably prone to the build-up of unwanted contaminants. {#block-23c922b4-9390-45eb-bd6c-e23a3bdd30ad}

Most track features nickel silver rail, which is naturally prone to tarnishing, while steel rail can corrode if employed in damp locations. The cleanliness (or otherwise) of locomotive and rolling stock wheels can also have a profound effect on the rails. There’s an argument that plastic wheels can lead to dirtier rails, although how true that is, I’m unsure. I do find metal wheels easier to keep clean, however. {#block-8e056c36-f149-488f-8c0c-8a89ceb65d7c}

Areas of poor contact between the rails and power-collecting metal wheels can lead to the creation of carbon deposits, thus making matters worse. Furthermore, any imperfections in the rail head’s surface will act as a magnet for grime, so it pays to be methodical when cutting and laying track sections in the first instance. {#block-d8817e12-7512-4041-835c-28973f399b0b}

As a child, I recall asking an exhibition layout operator for some track-cleaning tips and, while being temporarily perplexed by the term ‘elbow grease’, soon realised that there were few magic cures, especially as we’re encouraged not to use electronic trackcleaning units these days, due to their incompatibility with DCC and modern motors. {#block-0f7a12c6-fe57-43b4-83f0-947e04e91c72}

However, time and experience have shown that there are numerous steps a modeller can take to minimise the problem, mostly through adopting a preventative maintenance regime of regular cleaning. {#block-2c42a04e-b3b2-4f32-8f84-fe1224abf732}

Combining humble track rubbers with cleaning fluids, both of which are available from countless brands, plus a vacuum cleaner and old, clean T-shirts, the job can be achieved with minimum fuss. {#block-ccdb956e-deaa-4f15-9d79-0d4d0e565e66}

One of the latest cleaning products to come my way is a new alcohol-based fluid from Geoscenics. I’ve tested it on a few of my layouts over the past couple of months and found it to be effective for removing general dirt and debris, as well as paint and oily deposits. It’s equally good on rails and metal wheels and hasn’t had any deleterious effects on plastic components or paintwork. It’s certainly ideal for regular use, with a quick wipe down of the rails before each running session helping to ensure smooth running. {#block-34c51a2c-f26e-46cf-8447-e81f86eac4b3}

#### **STEP BY STEP** {#block-93381e69-da27-4feb-a168-99beaf43122a}

**1** Rails will always pick up dirt, but we can help minimise deposits by ensuring railheads are as smooth as possible. When cutting and laying track sections, use fine abrasives to polish away any tool marks left by a saw or file.

**2** It’s also important to tidy up the rails after soldering power feeds or if installing copperclad sleepers, especially at baseboard joints. A rub with successive grades of abrasive pads will remove any excess solder and flux residues.

**3** Track rubbers are available from many manufacturers, consisting of various grades of abrasive material. They work quickly and effectively, but many are prone to leaving behind plenty of debris (see Step 6).

**4** Track rubbers are great for removing paint from the rail heads, particularly after weathering. As well as the horizontal rail head surfaces, keeping the inside edges of the rails clear maximises the conductive surface area.

**5** Finer sanding pads, of medium and fine grades, are useful for treating point blades and their contact surfaces. Again, working on the upper, inner faces of the rails provides a greater conductive area for the wheels.

**6** It’s important to remove debris from the track rubber, lest it be picked up by wheels and deposited elsewhere. A soft brush can sweep debris away from rails or, for best results, brush it towards the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner.

#### **Mobile Rail Cleaners** {#block-6965180c-4e1b-4e07-b93b-82cc0c1815d7}

Many of our layouts feature areas that aren’t so easy to reach by hand, such as within tunnels or hidden sidings. Fixing a track rubber to a length of wood may help to a degree, but a mobile cleaner offers a labour-saving and far-reaching solution. {#block-744f775c-2505-43e9-b618-df60c2d0fa93}

Dapol’s motorised track-cleaning car offers an innovative option, with a spinning abrasive pad to clear away dirt from the rail heads, plus a vacuum to suck up dust and debris into an internal storage bin. It can also be fitted with cloth pads which can be loaded with a cleaning fluid (also offered by Dapol) to condition the rails. Although it’s not self-propelled, it does take power from the rails and can be hauled around the layout at regular intervals. Numerous special liveries have been offered over the years, including this exclusive _Model Rail_ version from the late 2000s. {#block-f8b535fa-be91-43aa-9c6b-86be99c189f8}

**Web:** _:a[www.dapol.co.uk]{href='https://www.dapol.co.uk/' }_ {#block-aefc10a0-ad43-4d79-9d62-8bb1e54b4b70}

#### **STEP BY STEP** {#block-a9412fe6-077c-4430-bf1f-a4570e25fdca}

**1** Rails may appear clean, but close inspection may reveal a build-up of dirt. Dust is an ever-present hazard and nickel silver rail is naturally prone to tarnishing, especially in damp conditions, so regular cleaning is a must.

**2** While an abrasive track rubber may be best for stubborn deposits, a cleaning fluid is ideal for more regular use. Dampen a scrap of cotton fabric (from an old T-shirt) with cleaning fluid and gently rub it over the tops of the rails.

**3** You’ll be surprised by how much dirt is absorbed by the fabric – these rails appeared clean beforehand. Repeat the process, using a cotton swab to reach into awkward areas. Take care when working around delicate structures.

**4** Allow a few minutes for the cleaner to dry on the rails before wiping with a clean cloth to remove any remaining dirt or residue. The Geoscenics cleaning fluid is alcohol-based and evaporates quickly.

**5** The same fluid is also ideal for cleaning wheels of locomotives and rolling stock – an equally important task. Dip a cotton swab into the fluid and wipe over the wheel treads, moving to a clean swab when the tip becomes dirty.

Other, cheaper mobile cleaners are also available, in the form of adapted wagons, mostly from European manufacturers, although Gaugemaster has commissioned several anglicised versions over the years. This tank wagon is from the Lima range (Hornby International) and features a floating cloth pad between the axles, plus a healthy amount of weight to help keep the pad in contact with the rails while the wagon is in motion.

Soaking the pad with a suitable cleaning fluid allows the pad to clean and condition the rails as the wagon is hauled around the layout.

A quick repaint into a more convincing livery helped this track-cleaning wagon look more at home on a UK layout. Running this fictional de-icing train as part of the layout’s regular operations helps minimise the build-up of dirt on the rails.

#### **EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER** {#block-7fac186a-9009-433c-ab02-1a3b472e98dd}

Readers can claim a £2.00 discount off the usual £18.00 price of Geoscenics Track Cleaner. Each pack contains two bottles of cleaner fluid, and this exclusive offer runs until February 23 2025. {#block-02352ef7-8eb8-4186-934a-b60ed8de56c0}

The discount is available for web orders only – simply enter the code **MRtrack** at the checkout stage. {#block-21d9670b-194d-4ee6-8b1c-caa69243e0ea}

_**Web:** :a[www.geoscenics.co.uk]{href='https://www.geoscenics.co.uk/' }_ {#block-f4ed0c3d-91ae-4b68-a123-3dcbf9d11b57}

Be inspired this January with a subscription to Model Rail for only £3 for your first 3 issues and save 82% on shop prices!

**Model Rail magazine is Britain's brightest and most informative magazine for model railway fans.** We cover every stage of the hobby, from buying a first model train set right through to museum standard fine-scale modelling in a lively style that encourages readers to get involved in the world's greatest hobby. Model Rail magazine is full of helpful tips, advice including model train layouts, details on model train sets. **Click the button below for the latest subscription offers!**

**In each issue of Model Rail magazine, you will find:**

Whether you're looking for the latest :a[digital edition]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=digital_edition_text' } or a :a[monthly subscription]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=subscribe_monthly_text' }, Model Rail magazine will help you get the most out of your hobby.

The Model Rail app is the perfect way to enjoy your subscription on the go. You can have all your issues stored in one place for easy reading and enjoy handpicked rewards!

#### Buying a pre-built layout worked out well for Andrew Morris, who soon realised he had something rather special on his hands. {#block-c2585385-bf27-4a9a-be0f-41d02c13754e}

Words: **Chris Gadsby** Photography: **Chris Nevard** Artwork: **Andrew Mackintosh** {#block-c294480b-f56b-4184-a6b7-f49a3a81ecfa}

#### **What makes this layout great?** {#block-15262390-94f8-41f7-bd97-6959a1446b5a}

**“Andrew has accomplished a delicate blend of old and new with this layout, making sure he stayed true to the one he bought while also adding his own flair for modelling.”** {#block-6ec82701-ba1a-46a6-947e-f31c318686f0}

Many of us have bought something on eBay at one point or another. It may be that you only dabble occasionally, or you might be checking it daily for new railway slides to try and add to your collection. The great thing about the site is that you can almost always get exactly what you need for an excellent price. It might be a part for your car, a birthday present, or, in Andrew Morris’ case, a model railway. {#block-3176bb7b-43fd-4865-a22e-d7c633bb73a0}

“This layout, which I have since named ‘Graig Merthyr’, was spotted online by my then-wife and it was located fairly close to me as we were living in Wales at the time. It seemed as though it would be perfect. I won the auction, headed up to have a look at it and was taken aback when I first saw it. Something didn’t seem right, but at first glance I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Then I realised – this isn’t ‘OO’ gauge!” {#block-1c711ae7-c2c1-481f-a947-fafb10cf44b0}

#### TRACK INSPECTION {#block-66b58e4c-7375-4a29-ba36-11531d599e7c}

For a second I felt disheartened, but upon closer inspection I discovered that no, it was the right gauge, but all the track had been handbuilt from C&L sections of track and Scaleway points with the correct sleeper spacing for ‘OO’ gauge. It really threw my eye when I first looked at it. When I got the layout home and could give it a proper inspection, the same trackwork that had originally thrown me off completely blew me away. The quality of the work was astounding and encouraged me to up my game when it came to adding the extension. I’m not a rivet counter by any means, but still wanted a reasonable representation of a railway and couldn’t let the layout transition from stunning handbuilt track to off‐the‐shelf pieces.” {#block-cc178273-4962-47d6-9175-182ec86c4dba}

Within three months of ‘Graig Merthyr’ (the name taken from a colliery local to Andrew) changing home, Andrew had decided to extend it. {#block-09780e92-ed47-4012-a2bb-42e7357c40cd}

“The fiddleyard that came with the layout was a little travel-worn and the join between the fiddleyard and the scenic section consisted of a small piece which was, in my opinion, poorly done. It looked as though it was an afterthought. It did mean though that I had the perfect excuse to take it out, improve it, and add an extension at the same time. Since the layout is Welsh I opted to go down the coal route for the extension and elected to incorporate a bridge that would lead to another colliery and act as a scenic break. Rather than have the bridge right at the end of the scenic section as many modellers do, I chose to put it a foot or so inside the scenic section so that trains would disappear into the distance, rather than into a tunnel. The bridge is reasonably accurate for one I saw in the local area as I took plenty of photographs and counted the bricks to make the model.” {#block-c77545f3-7bea-4a93-80df-73ef9e07e125}

#### KEEPING IT REAL {#block-b01fd46f-052b-4d90-9bfc-e395c30be83e}

When you buy a layout second-hand you can rip it all up and just use the baseboards, or you can keep everything as close as possible to the original design. {#block-5b12220d-3909-455e-a2f9-776741407ecc}

Andrew decided that the latter was the better option and kept everything as original as he could up to the Portakabin, which marks where old meets new. {#block-4ac48f5f-4f2c-46d2-8893-e40c3e36142d}

“If you’re going to buy a layout and then rip all of it out then you might as well have just started from scratch in the first place! The only significant part of the original layout I’ve changed is the old steam shed, which I’ve converted into a modern fuel point as I run the layout in the BR blue era of the 1980s. With my collection I could run it anywhere from the mid-1960s onwards. I’ve tried my best to find information about when and how the layout was first built and have come up with absolutely nothing. All I’ve been able to do is guess that it was built around the 1980s, given the products used and the dates on the few boxes that I do have from the purchase. The station area still has points controlled by H&M point motors which are very old and give a really heavy clunk when they move, but they’re pretty robust. I’ve never had any problems with them. Overall, the buildings have aged reasonably well and I’ve not had to do anything other than replace the odd missing chimney pot, and lights have been added to the platform to put my own mark on the area, but with the build quality so good in the first place, why change it?” {#block-ddb5cfbc-c50f-4a79-b402-75dd70137e3b}

Having such a good base to work with meant that Andrew could spend much more of his time on the finer details of the layout, using ideas that occur to him while he’s driving as inspiration. {#block-6ad315ec-d50b-4e9d-8c26-1a250fd16c5e}

“These details come from my memories of the area that was heavily attacked during the war. The bomb crater on top of the hill is a prime example. Today, they have all grown over, but if you go for a walk in the local valleys, you reach one and can tell by the circular nature of it and its size that nobody has dug that by hand. The manhole cover in the street allows a nice view of the sewer pipe below and those pipes have remained in my mind for a long time. When I was a boy, my friends and I used to go and play in some of the industrialised areas and we’d see these pipes. Never sure what was coming out of them as it clearly wasn’t water or sewage, we made the decision not to touch it as it was probably some industrial chemical. There weren’t the water regulations there are now. {#block-fcf857e1-c460-4879-8ef3-24f79568439b}

“I made a change to the fiddleyard earlier this year, bringing it from a 6ft straight one to a 4ft traverser, but I think now that the layout is complete. I’m certainly not extending it again now that it’s 24ft long. Of course, it takes some dedicated modelling professionals to help everybody’s layout come together so I’d like to thank Justin at Scale Model Scenery, as well as Martin and Rhys at WWS for their assistance during the build, and a special thank you goes to Chris at West Hill Wagon Works who rushed through an order for me when I realised something was missing right before Chris Nevard came to take the photographs!” {#block-e1df3825-c54d-44b5-931f-940620a56e88}

A quick eBay search shows that there are plenty of model railways for sale at the moment, and at prices to suit almost every budget. Whether you’re looking for something that’s ready to go or something that you can build upon without having to come up with a fresh idea of your own, why not have a browse and see what’s available? You might just grab yourself a bargain along the way. {#block-9101a1d9-5813-44d9-8f14-3f0c1a5e169e}

#### RAIL CRANES {#block-591bf83f-af7d-45d2-b4bf-61ea89af6fde}

Andrew has tried to lean on his experience working on the railway as much as possible with ‘Graig Merthyr’, and that includes his cranes. {#block-be8403f8-13db-4ee6-979f-3088d813d3c0}

“I wanted to include some things that not everybody has. It’s easy to buy things off a shelf but I wanted something a little bit different and cranes just seem to be my thing. The Plasser single jib crane is a resin cast kit which was a lovely kit to assemble and travels impeccably on the track because it weighs a ton! There’s also a crane I used to work on as an apprentice. This one is a Dapol kit on which I’ve made a slight alteration to the chassis to turn it into a rigid eight-wheel vehicle and I’ve adjusted the cab to give it a sloping roof rather than a flat one, as well as adding wire handrails. The match truck that goes with it was also a cheap find from Ratio that I’ve altered the jib length on as it was slightly inaccurate. {#block-cdd40931-b9ca-47b7-a04f-2c2f15aad7c9}

“The salmon wagon cranes were scratchbuilt but I have since found out that West Hill Wagon Works are making those cranes and generators, which is handy because I have another four wagons that need to be craned up. The next project is to make some long welded rail to go on the beds of the wagons which are long enough but flexible enough to go on the curves of the layout. I’ve tried a few things already but have not yet found a material which looks like rail, but bends enough to go round the curves. {#block-7ba3ddf6-7155-4b8f-9e3b-c7e43d53ee8e}

### **3 things we like** {#block-66fdfc51-e646-4d4e-b635-d6b4efe33746}

#### **FACTFILE: ‘GRAIG METHYR’** {#block-02616363-3def-45df-9884-9a00e2b7803d}

#### **ABOUT THE MODELLER: ANDREW MORRIS** {#block-e9a530fa-6a64-4a77-a789-b20022eab420}

“I work for GWR at Longrock depot, but when I’m away from the railways, either full ‐size or miniature, I get out with my Welsh sheepdog as she is a ball of non-stop energy! Our favourite walk is along the beach as she loves the sea.” {#block-345cb321-e0ad-4cd6-826f-deb00a0d4051}

What a fascinating year it has been, with an impressive array of top-quality ready-to-run locomotives and rolling stock appearing across the various scales.

As usual, modellers in ‘OO’ have been particularly spoiled for choice with a host of classic diesel and electric traction types, plus a few ‘oddballs’, while the steam era hasn’t been overlooked, with several interesting prototypes being offered for the first time.

While it’s been another quiet year for ‘OO9’ narrow gauge, the expansion of ‘TT:120’ has been fascinating to witness. The ‘Tabletop’ scale has remained the domain of just two manufacturers this year but, with Revolution Trains due to enter the fray, 2025 is lining up to be another good year for ‘TT:120’.

It has also been a modest year for new ‘N’ gauge locomotive releases, although some exceptional 2mm scale carriages and wagons did reach the market. ‘O’ gauge continues to attract new acolytes, helped by diesel and steam-outline locomotives big and small. Narrow gauge modelling in 7mm scale becomes increasingly viable, thanks to another manufacturer dipping its toe into the waters.

Our Model of the Year awards began in 2006 and offer you, the reader, a chance to acknowledge the amazing effort that manufacturers put into their products, as well as offering us a useful barometer of public opinion.

Voting is completely free and open to everyone, with each nominee consisting of a new ready-to-run model that has appeared over the calendar year, and which has been reviewed in _Model Rail_ in 2024. This includes all-new and revised toolings, including those receiving enhancements to mechanisms, electronics and detail specifications.

Categories are spread across each of the popular scales, featuring locomotives and rolling stock. For the first time, we’ve included ‘TT:120’ products, now that the scope of products has increased dramatically this year.

Due to its popularity, we have retained the option to vote for your favourite model retailer, with two categories to help differentiate larger concerns from smaller, local businesses. We’ve also been squirrelling away an amazing array of goodies for our bumper prize draw, worth well over £3,500, with free entry for everyone who votes in _Model Rail’s_ Model of the Year 2024 awards.

This is YOUR chance to recognise the hard work, dedication and innovation of those at the heart of our wonderful hobby… so cast your votes today!

**WIN!** **MODEL OF THE YEAR MEGA PRIZE DRAW**

Every reader who casts a vote in our Model of the Year 2024 awards will be automatically entered into a bumper prize draw, with a huge range of locomotives, carriages, wagons and buildings up for grabs, in ‘N’, ‘OO’, ‘TT:120’ and ‘O’ gauge, plus a Gaugemaster Infinity Sovereign DCC control system (as reviewed on page 91).

Gaugemaster infinity Sovereign DCC Starter set

Dapol 2D-005-005 Class 59, 59001 Yeoman Endeavour, Aggregate Industries

Graham Farish 372-916 LMS ‘Twin’ 10000, BR green

Graham Farish 377-615 MXA ‘Lobster’ wagon, DB red

Graham Farish 378-027 SE&CR ‘Dance Hall’ brake van, BR grey

Graham Farish 378-002A 14T Class A anchor-mounted tank wagon, National Benzole

Rapido Trains UK 942009 SECR wagon pack, SR post-1936 livery

EFE Rail E82001 SR ‘Booster’ CC1, SR grey

Heljan 5711 Class 57 57604 Pendennis Castle, GWR green

Hornby R30126 LNER Class W1 ‘Hush-Hush’, No. 10000, LNER grey/silver

Hornby R30136 LNER Class B17/5, No. 2859 East Anglian, LNER green

Hornby LMS Fowler Class 4P, No. 2300, LMS crimson

Hornby R30114, SR ‘West Country’ No. 34046 Braunton, BR green

Hornby R30359 LMS ‘Princess Coronation’, No. 46243 City of Lancaster, BR blue

Hornby R40440/1/2/3/4 Mk 3 HST coaches, Grand Central

Hornby Skaledale R7391 Dunster station building

Hornby Skaledale R7392 Dunster goods shed

Hornby Skaledale R7394 Dunster engine shed

Rapido Trains UK 945002 LNWR 10ton van, LNWR grey

Hornby TT3009M LNER Class A4, No. 60025 Falcon, BR blue

Dapol 7F-062-005 Class A tank wagon, Regent silver

Winners will be drawn at random after the **voting closes on February 16 2025** **at 11:59pm**.

Entry into the prize draw is via the Model of the Year voting website only and we reserve the right to allocate prizes at our discretion.

https://xd.wayin.com/embed/7271d578-c22f-4a01-bf36-939e5c341686?mode=responsive&scrolling=no

#### **Chris Nevard** sees what he can do with an old favourite plastic kit, which dates back to the Airfix range from the 1960s. {#block-dd276b95-875d-4983-af32-9459937be47e}

PHOTOGRAPHY: **CHRIS NEVARD** {#block-796baad7-9453-4a37-a81c-08a30247442c}

The Dapol Engine Shed kit was originally released as part of the Airfix ‘Trackside Series’, around 1960. That’s the same year that British Railways was building its final steam locomotives, so you could say that it’s a kit from the steam age – just about! {#block-8e52ce86-16c1-40ce-85bc-1fa891185e46}

This plastic kit is often overlooked these days, with so many other offerings in this area. Indeed, there are so many resin, card, plastic, laser-cut timber and now even 3D-printed engine sheds in 4mm scale, in kit and ready-toplant form. Sometimes though, when faced with a bewildering array of choice, it’s good to go back to one’s roots and remember the older kits from days gone by. {#block-72c8634b-09b0-4321-9db9-4c998140f53a}

The Dapol kit is still freely available from model shops and Dapol stockists, now packaged under the famous old Kitmaster brand name. The moulding tools may be classed as vintage, but the kit is still definitely worth experimenting with, not least due to its bargain price, which at the time of writing was under £12 (although it’s often seen on sale for less than a tenner). Looking on eBay and similar online sites, there are also plenty of the old Airfix versions still available, too, if you fancy a full-on vintage experience. {#block-0886abbb-7e23-4b12-9c22-13a402078f7c}

There’s also the likelihood that older kits will feature less in the way of ‘flash’ on the components, as the tooling was less worn. Indeed, it’s noted in the current kit’s comprehensive instructions that, owing to the age of the tooling, one must be prepared to do a little more tidying up before assembly than with more modern kits. {#block-508fc128-8909-4d42-aacc-c0975b1ec024}

A definite advantage of this (and similar) kits is that the injection-moulded plastic parts are easy to work with. They can be bonded securely with liquid poly cement, and the pliable material can be modified with a knife, drill and files. Multiple kits can be joined together and there’s plenty of opportunity to add extra exterior and interior details. {#block-8f7ee695-2b55-4b81-be7d-4f28977e338b}

With a little work, the kit can be made to look great if you accept that it will take a little more effort to complete than, say, a Wills or Ratio kit. And I hope you agree that it does have fabulous character with a hint of whimsy – something that appeals to me anyway. {#block-451c837f-4207-4515-8b2e-e9eb90fd8650}

And my final thought is that the bottom of the doors do sit rather high above the ground. I presume this allows for tinplate track-work which would have been common in the 1960s. I might graft on a bit of extra material to the base of the doors at some point to remedy this – literal – shortfall. {#block-760f5be6-893a-4841-9135-05f915a9b179}

Anyway, next time you’re browsing in your local model shop, look out for one of these kits and treat yourself to a cheap and very enjoyable assembly and painting project. {#block-cf6037d0-c84a-4293-96a0-3b7dee6c33d4}

#### What you will need {#block-c23895fd-93d1-40a6-9fa2-b81553e75e20}

**SHOPPING LIST** {#block-5a1cef8f-20b1-4066-9e7f-963d0ee8f517}

◆ Slater’s Plastikard 2mm plain plastic sheet, 7mm Scale Corrugated sheet (437) **Availability:** Model shops **Web:** _:a[www.slatersplastikard.com]{href='https://www.slatersplastikard.com/' }_ {#block-3cb3c9a3-f932-45f1-a2e9-a00fe6c5228b}

◆Grey, Red, Filler (yellow) primers and Matt Black aerosol paints **Availability:** Halfords stores **Web:** _:a[www.halfords.com]{href='https://www.halfords.com/' }_ {#block-2977883b-7b6a-4e58-88ab-0a7475765aaf}

◆A selection of brick red, yellow ochre, brown and beige matt enamel or interior matt emulsion testers • black poster paint. **Availability:** Hardware/craft stores {#block-1a022f1a-4c4c-4603-9c5c-700ecaf8d102}

◆ Styrene Solvent, such as Plastic Magic by Deluxe Materials **Availability:** Model shops **Web:** _:a[www.deluxematerials.co.uk]{href='https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/' }_ {#block-c3e1d035-1257-4128-82df-fd0e8fc8775c}

**TOOLS** {#block-61c42940-eabd-4b99-9435-e52415794415}

◆ Scalpel or hobby craft knife with spare blades {#block-3841687f-82d3-414c-9da3-8cab18ad6d79}

◆ Needle file or disposable nail file {#block-e1535158-1152-4ee7-8548-46d18f770236}

◆ Metal ruler {#block-8c23e39c-c943-4a33-ae0a-a6ed70b5afb2}

◆ Cutting mat {#block-83c2fa21-3f25-41f5-a958-af890a8f9c7d}

◆ Paper masking tape {#block-240ad51d-c1f6-4e91-839b-65d3d9e0d140}

#### **STEP BY STEP** {#block-8cee3cb9-5e60-435a-91d4-2d3c76d53bb5}

**1** The first job is to identify all the components while looking at the exploded view diagram, noting the disclaimer about numbers on parts not necessarily matching those of the instructions! But, with relatively few parts, this is not a big deal.

**2** Once all the components have been identified, the next task is to clean up the mouldings which have quite a bit of flash. Needle files or emery files are ideal tools for this job.

**3** The window frames and doors were the worst affected, with lots of excess plastic seeping between the tools during the moulding process, owing to the age of the tooling. Cleaning these parts was time-consuming.

**4** Initially, I tackled the window frames with a flat needle file, which reached within the latticework easily. Wear a mask and vacuum away the dust at intervals to avoid inhaling the fine powdered plastic.

**5** I also found that scraping the surfaces with a fresh scalpel blade helped remove waste. The flat file was better for achieving true straight lines and square corners, so combining the two techniques was helpful.

**6** After the scraping and filing, the plastic parts can still look ragged, but a neat trick for achieving a smoother edge is to paint some liquid poly cement over the surface. This dissolves the tiny burrs into the plastic.

**7** Assembly began by bonding one side wall to the rear, doing a ‘dry’ run first to ensure the parts fit neatly. Apply solvent from the inside and check the walls stand vertically and the corner joint is set at 90º.

**8 NOTE:** Don’t remove what looks like sprue from the round aperture on the front wall, as this forms part of the support framework for the ventilation fan. Take care when removing the flash from these parts…

**9** Enough material must be removed to allow the propeller-type fan to fit into place. It took me a few attempts to get it right, as the framework is quite delicate, so handle with care once in place.

**10** The front wall was bonded to the other side, checking the angles. When the cement had cured, the two halves of the structure were brought together. At this stage it was clear that the walls were warped and quite bendy.

**11** When the four walls had cured, I added interior supports, cutting strips from a sheet of 2mm thick plastic card. They were cut with a stout trimming knife, using several cuts against a steel rule to work through the thick material.

**12** Having cut two strips to length, to fit within the side walls, they were glued to the inner top edge and held in place with spring clamps until the cement cured, working on one side at a time.

**13** The process was repeated by adding shorter strips of 2mm thick plastic card to the inside of the end walls, sat atop the side strengtheners. Once these were bonded, the walls were straight, and the structure was much sturdier.

**14** After adding the intermediate roof support truss, the next job was to attach the roof sections, which slot inside of the outer walls. As a result, the moulded slates don’t go all the way to the end of the wall, which I found unsightly.

Latest on Model Rail

Latest Magazine

Latest Online Features