BWS-Article-hero-image.jpg

Exclusive New Model – Class 26/1

BWS-banner-image.jpg

WIN A HORNBY ‘TT:120’ HST TRAIN SET

BWS-header-image-pricing-and-discount.jpg

Subscribe to Model Rail Magazine

MR-Article-Size.jpg

Enjoy instant digital access to Model Rail!

Steam-Article-1.jpg

Enjoy instant digital access to Steam Railway!

feature-img.png

Model Rail issue 335 is now available!

feature-image-1.png

Model of the Year 2024

MR-021-pic-2-scaled.jpg

Our new Sentinels are now available!

Pannier Pic 1_preview.jpg

THE ’16XX’ IS HERE!

plaster-feature.jpg

HOW TO: USE PLASTER TO CREATE LIFELIKE ROCK FACES

Website-feature-image-3.jpg

Detail on a deadline

Website-feature-image-2.jpg

A legacy layout

Website-feature-image-1.jpg

HOW TO: SERVICE LOCOMOTIVES

Website-feature-image.jpg

HOW TO: DISTRESS PRIVATE OWNER WAGONS

88.png

Lost without Lostwithiel

Display_BWS_1600x900px_A-1.jpg

ModelRailOffers.co.uk

491ef4fe-1268-41d4-b21a-6f1b8cafe981.jpg

HOW TO: KEEP YOUR RAILS CLEAN

240122-Graig-Merthyr-DSC_4581.jpg

Working on a coal mine

pic-1.jpg

How To: Build a Classic Engine Shed Kit

TrainSetXmasGift.png

12 gifts for model railway fans

1-1.jpg

HOW TO USE HAIR TO CREATE A WATER FEATURE

055ccbd2-f53c-4132-b349-bd6cb8a8499a.jpg

HOW TO BALLAST YOUR TRACK

21be057f-54dc-4d18-96b7-0b197fd91c0b-1.jpg

Modelling Against the Clock

09e1b7c9-a91d-4d28-b7aa-cd754529f624-1.jpg

South Coast spectacular

48e40eac-711e-4d9b-b1a6-9692d48f1033.jpg

Ahead of the curve

Model of the Year

Voting

The Models

Magazine

Latest Issues

Online Features

Model Rail For Beginners

Workbench

Layouts

#### **Peter Marriott** dons an apron and sets about testing an interesting new modeller-friendly plaster material that hails from Belgium. {#block-b6204d92-6b23-4e3a-bb05-b43751f0f2b2}

PHOTOGRAPHY: **PETER MARRIOTT** {#block-60618fdc-a0c9-404b-bce8-70785f43a1c7}

**W**ith plans for a number of new modelling projects this year, most of which will feature large areas of exposed rockfaces, I thought it prudent to try out some new products and techniques. This would help me to decide whether to employ them on these upcoming layouts, or if I should stick to processes that I’ve used before. {#block-f0ebcca0-0611-4435-8efa-aeee5be070d2}

What prompted me to experiment was the appearance of Mifoshape, a sculpting powder that has recently become available. Formulated in Belgium, it was created out of dissatisfaction with established plaster materials, with an aim of creating a medium that can be worked easily for up to 30minutes before it begins to set. With traditional plasters, we’re lucky if we get 10 minutes to work the material before it begins to harden and becomes unworkable. {#block-86804178-5adc-4287-94fe-43c2fb41f255}

Another feature of Mifoshape is the ability to still work on the landscape while it’s curing. The nature of the material allows fine detailing to be imparted into the rockfaces, especially if a little PVA glue is added to the water/powder mix, and drying time is dependent upon the amount of water added to the mix, and the thickness of the material. Initial curing takes place within the first two hours, but full curing may take a couple of days, depending on ambient temperature and humidity. Drying can be speeded up by positioning a fan to ventilate the area, encouraging the water to evaporate. {#block-d990fdbd-14bb-48c7-9a19-86429883aa93}

Various mixing ratios can be employed, the most common ratio is 3 parts powder to 1 part water. The less water used, the quicker the drying time. It is recommended to experiment with the ratios and discover what works best for you. The powder has a maximum shelf life of six months once the sealed bag is opened, but remember to reseal the bag using the strip provided to prevent any moisture from entering the bag. {#block-0722ac3b-e3bb-42f0-a2cb-a13bd58f170e}

#### **TESTING MIFOSHAPE** {#block-99b8c9f0-dcfe-4177-bad1-20c0fd48b514}

To put this new sculpting material to the test, I opted to build a diorama featuring a railway cutting hewn from rock, which would provide an interesting backdrop. When the parcel arrived, the Mifoshape was packaged within a couple of useful black foam sheets. As I’m always happy to recycle materials wherever possible, the foam was used as the basis for the landscape, which was then covered with a layer of plaster cloth to give the Mifoshape a good surface to adhere to. {#block-793742b7-a7c1-4367-9393-c12bd0157f06}

Next day, I mixed some of the Mifoshape powder with water in a plastic tub (plastic takeaway food tubs are ideal for this purpose – cleaned of course!). I used a 3:1 ratio of Mifoshape and water, plus a little PVA adhesive, mixing it thoroughly with a wooden stick. Once I was happy with the consistency, it was applied to the scene with a small trowel. {#block-8f67f876-ce44-4f31-abc4-ba8ab1157a36}

The Mifoshape was applied to an initial depth of 2-3mm and, after leaving it to dry for about 15minutes, I used the cleaned trowel to cut into and shape the damp Mifoshape to represent cracks and texture of a typical rockface. {#block-1dec264a-f878-4210-9f08-6075ddb3b3eb}

#### **CONCLUSIONS** {#block-77d3407a-6b5e-4386-ad18-eb39375a4e03}

Painting was carried out the following day, followed by the addition of layers of greenery, and I was pleased with the finished results. I found Mifoshape easy to work with and, once it is coloured, it looks very realistic. I didn’t feel like I was working against the clock to achieve the desired results, thanks to the longer working time, while the material was responsive when adding textures and strata patterns to the surface. {#block-a8ccf6c1-59a0-48cd-a21d-a0e00ef823a2}

Due to its porous nature, only thin washes of paint are necessary to colour the Mifoshape once it has fully cured. Applying too much paint is likely to reduce the realism of the finished rockface. The packaging foam sheets provided a great basis for the landscape, being lightweight – and free! Patience is needed with all modelling projects, but particularly when creating rockfaces, as it’s important to allow each stage to dry-out fully before moving on to the next step. The trial has felt like a success, so I will feel confident using this Mifoshape sculpting powder on my scenic projects in future. {#block-531ba9b0-f1e6-40fe-929d-424365a7f6ea}

#### What you will need {#block-abe635a2-441d-4b2f-8643-d1c4047ea116}

**SHOPPING LIST** {#block-8104e19b-cca1-44ce-bd85-dafa8368fd06}

◆ Mifoshape sculpting powder  
**Price:** £25 per 1.5kg bag  
**Availability:** DCC Train Automation  
**Web:** _:a[www.dcctrainautomation]{href='http://www.dcctrainautomation/' }_ {#block-fed05619-e7b0-4f16-9d02-d331549a9596}

◆ Mifoshape website: _:a[www.scapesupplies.com]{href='https://www.scapesupplies.com/' }_ {#block-67ebe67a-d030-4afa-921e-34856816b4f0}

◆ Woodland Scenics Poly Fibers, various scatter materials and grass tufts, plaster cloth, acrylic paints, PVA adhesive  
**Availability:** Model/craft shops {#block-d868c19f-f983-4eb8-a2de-a903c0f4f839}

**TOOLS** {#block-1a28a899-a245-4ac9-856d-6cad0b562a47}

◆ Mixing bowl  
◆ Small trowel  
◆ Paintbrushes  
◆ Electrostatic grass applicator (optional) {#block-659d5786-315d-44a1-bc64-ca87a224ea2e}

#### **STEP BY STEP** {#block-c47ae6b3-96f8-47bf-ae54-f576b2fe596a}

**1** I made a small diorama measuring 27cm by 20cm, from a sheet of mounting card, onto which the landscape contours were created using pieces of foam packaging, bonded with PVA glue and covered with plaster cloth.

**2** Mifoshape is a new powder from a Belgian manufacturer, designed for creating landscapes and rock faces. It has been formulated with modellers in mind, with the aim of making it easier to with than most regular plasters.

**3** You can tailor the mixing ratio, but I opted for the ‘regular’ 3:1 blend of Mifoshape and water, measured out in plastic cups. To improve adhesion of the mixed Mifoshape I mixed in 10% by volume of PVA woodworking glue.

**4** It’s important to fully close the protective strip along the top of the Mifoshape packaging, to lock out any moisture from the air and ensure the product remains usable for up to six months after first opening.

**5** After mixing the water, PVA glue and Mifoshape powder thoroughly, the mixture becomes ‘claggy’, which is easy to pick up with a miniature trowel. It’s now ready to apply to the model scene.

**6** I applied the mixture over the dried plaster cloth, to a depth of around 2mm. The miniature trowel (about 20cm long) proved an ideal tool (they’re available from art/craft stores), helping to apply and spread the mixture accurately.

**7** After spreading the mixture over the area, I waited about 15minutes before using the cleaned trowel to create a more refined texture, as well as strata lines, wiping the tip of the tool with a cloth at regular intervals.

**8** The Mifoshape remained workable for a good 30 minutes, so there was no need to rush during the treatment of this small diorama. When happy with the appearance, I set the scene aside overnight in a warm room to dry out.

**9** Next day I created various washes from several Revell acrylic paints, diluted heavily with water (about 90% water and 10% paint). Water-based paints will be absorbed easily by the porous surface, so only a small amount is required.

#### **BEHIND THE SCENES** {#block-a8b7bc17-0229-47c3-8c9b-56a44155906d}

The sheets of foam packaging provided a perfect – and free – material with which to form the landscape. A layer of plaster cloth allowed the basic scenic contour to be created, while also providing a more rigid surface. {#block-5bc93b3f-0272-48e2-a19f-131f75184b10}

**10** Starting with a mid-brown wash shade, and using the ‘leopard spot’ technique, I applied it in modest spots with a round brush along the rockface. The process was repeated with a few lighter and darker brown washes.

**11** After the ‘dotted’ brown colours had started to dry, I applied a thin black wash over the rockface, which naturally found its way into all the recessed texture and crannies, bringing out the surface relief.

**12** The surrounding areas were also painted at this time, allowing the thinned paints to dry before applying more coats and different shades where necessary.

**13** In certain areas, I applied patches of fine sand, having brushed on a layer of adhesive. PVA or scenic glue will suffice, but I used a light coat of matt Mod Podge, with the fine sand sprinkled on while it was wet.

**14** Short static grass fibres were added to the top of the rockface, applied over wet PVA. The pin from the electrostatic grass tool was pressed into the landscape and then more glue was added with a sponge…

**15** …before a second layer of static grass was applied, this time using slightly taller fibres. Adding these taller fibres, in random areas, creates a more natural texture, especially if slightly different shades of fibres are mixed.

**16** A believable transition was needed between the trackbed and rockface, so more PVA glue was brushed along the cess area, between the track and base of the cutting.

**17** Some teased-out Woodland Scenics Poly Fibre was pressed gently into the wet glue and allowed to dry. I then used hairspray, targeted over the Poly Fibre, and sprinkled on a selection of fine scatter materials to represent foliage.

**18** Scenic modellers are now blessed with a multitude of grass tufts available in different colours and heights. Some of the tufts can be cut down to make smaller tufts of grass with a small pair of scissors.

**19** The grass tufts were fixed on to the landscape with PVA glue, while more areas of Poly Fibre were added, followed by layers of scatter materials secured with hairspray, to build up various layers of vegetation.

**20** A row of trees were planted, consisting of a selection by Anita Décor, Primo Models and two created from Noch tree armatures coated with clump foliage and finer scatter materials.

## BR Class 26/1 26043 in Rail blue with DCE stripes and Haymarket depot logos - only £210.00!

Model Rail has teamed-up with Heljan once again to offer a special version of the all-new ‘OO’ gauge Class 26. :a[**SHOP NOW**]{href='http://Model Rail has teamed-up with Heljan once again to offer a special version of the all-new ‘OO’ gauge Class 26.' }

Bringing Heljan’s popular model in line with modern expectations, the new Class 26 has been fully redesigned, including a revised bodyshell and underframe that feature even greater detail and prototype fidelity.

The body features a lift-off roof panel to allow easy access to the 21pin DCC decoder socket. There’s also a full suite of switchable exterior and interior lighting functions, plus an upgraded drive unit.

Our exclusive model depicts Class 26/1 26043, which holds the honour of being the last Class 26 to be outshopped in Rail blue livery, following refurbishment in 1985. After moving from Eastfield to Haymarket depot, 26043 was allocated to the Scottish Region’s Departmental Civil Engineers (DCE) sector, gaining a set of distinctive markings below the cab windows on the second man’s side, complete with ScR lettering. Haymarket’s famous depot logos, featuring Edinburgh Castle, were also applied.

After withdrawal, due to an electrical fault caused by snow ingress, 26043 was saved for preservation in the 1990s, and is currently operational at the Gloucestershire & Warwickshire Railway.

Our model comes supplied with optional miniature snowploughs and various other detail fittings, including air horn vent covers and alternative bogie steps to mimic the period when 26043 was fitted with Class 26/0 bogies.

:a[**SHOP CLASS 26 MODEL**]{href='https://www.modelrailoffers.co.uk/p/95505/2647-MR-Heljan-Class-26-1-Diesel-Locomotive-26-043-BR-Blue?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=modelrail_offers&amp;utm_content=article_class_26' }

**:a[SHOP CLASS 26 MODEL]{href='https://www.modelrailoffers.co.uk/p/95505/2647-MR-Heljan-Class-26-1-Diesel-Locomotive-26-043-BR-Blue?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=modelrail_offers&amp;utm_content=article_class_26' }**

## Buy this exclusive model at :a[ModelRailOffers.co.uk]{href='http://2647 BR Class 26/1 26043 in Rail blue with DCE stripes and Haymarket depot logos Regular price: £210.00 Price for Model Rail subscribers: £189' } for only £210!

Model Rail subscribers get 10% off every model. Get this model for only £189! :a[SHOP NOW]{href='http://2647 BR Class 26/1 26043 in Rail blue with DCE stripes and Haymarket depot logos Regular price: £210.00 Price for Model Rail subscribers: £189' }

Browse our latest :a[**Model Rail subscription offers**]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=model-rail.co.uk&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=article_class_26_launch' } now and become a subscriber to receive discount!

#### Despite being built within a tight three-week time limit, **Dan Hughes**’ ‘Katie Lane TMD’ doesn’t scrimp on the detail. {#block-86825d96-5a33-4661-af76-df99feaa6ec0}

Words: **Chris Gadsby** Photography: **Chris Nevard** Artwork: **Andrew Mackintosh** {#block-7a4b921c-bba4-4c17-82b2-73d6b103eef6}

#### **What makes this layout great?** {#block-e1129257-f608-4dea-a49d-d902c5bc8a91}

**“ ‘Katie Lane’ feels like a snapshot of a much larger depot in a bustling industrial environment. With the glimpse of terraced houses and the rear of a Tesco store, you get the impression that a busy South Wales town is just the other side of the backscene. ”** {#block-21092369-be4f-4651-8247-b2f99ba4f097}

We often think of model railways as a relaxing hobby that we can do to while away the hours, painting miniature people and making sure everything is exactly how we want it to be before moving on. But what if you haven’t got hours to spend on the finer details? What if you are told you have just three weeks to build an exhibition layout before the Swansea model railway show? That was the challenge Dan Hughes found himself met with in 2023 when one of the members of the Swansea Railway Modellers Group asked him if he fancied building something for the upcoming event. Dan said yes, and the result is ‘Katie Lane TMD’. {#block-c246a2e1-c3e9-447f-aaf4-5cefed891ca1}

Despite being on such a tight deadline, Dan was insistent with himself that this wouldn’t be a slapdash job, even if that would mean pulling some all-nighters. {#block-b8afa0ab-52e3-4173-b212-3f239e3d3d9e}

#### **3** things we like {#block-6b628575-d46f-4e60-9877-6e5697864c0c}

1 Workers digging away behind safety barriers.

2 A host of spare locomotive parts in open storage.

3 The finely painted tools and equipment.

“I went through about eight different track plans before I decided I was happy with where each of the four points were situated and with the curvature of the tracks that those locations gave me. It would have been easy to panic with the time constraint and include siding after siding in the 10in wide space, but as somebody who has always built depots, I knew better than to haphazardly include track where it wasn’t needed. Everything at the depot has to be there for a reason. It’s a bit of a niche, but I have a thing about fuel points. Most of my research goes into them as I love the dinginess and grime surrounding them, so including one is a must on all of my layouts. With a fuel point comes the need to drop fuel off on site, so another siding is needed for incoming tankers. After both of those and the inclusion of a Bachmann Scenecraft shed, there was only room for one more short siding to still give me space for the smaller details. I’ve always been interested in railways and every one of my layouts has been based on the South Wales coast around the same 1980s to 1990s period, so by this point I’m well versed in what these depots need to include and what I needed to include to represent them fairly.” {#block-fadf8ed1-e1a7-40cb-8fa2-7b1abb6faa7d}

#### **DEVIL IN THE DETAIL** {#block-5a430cf2-a144-4c54-a35b-40a7eabb45da}

You might think that building a layout that only has a 3ft 6in by 10in scenic section would keep the cost down. However, with such a small area comes the ability to really hone in on all of those small details that would get lost on a large scale creation. Dan has modified the shed to fit the space, before filling it with hundreds of pounds worth of finer details. {#block-b9d6f3f1-2f47-4493-9c0c-4c29ddcb8b22}

“I’ve got a great relationship with the people at West Hill Wagon Works, but they keep bringing out products that make me part with my money! I’ve always enjoyed making micro layouts so that I can concentrate so much on smaller areas to get the feel just right, and having such a wide range of available products from West Hill and others makes it so much easier than it was a decade or so ago. I wanted to get plenty of atmosphere into the space while at all times remembering that less is often more. It would be so easy to overdo an area and so I spent a while moving parts around, adding stuff and taking it away, until I got the look I wanted. I used to work for War World Scenics so have used products from there to create the two small embankments on the left-hand side and any greenery between the tracks, and the curtain which disguises the entrance to the fiddleyard has been made from strips of fabric bought from The Range.” {#block-ff39f26c-a7b8-4106-8df0-505e11983aa5}

After spending so much of his three-week time limit getting everything in the right place, Dan couldn’t just let a shiny new locomotive come onto the scene. Fortunately, weathering is where he gets the most enjoyment out of the hobby. {#block-481468ee-17d5-42af-99ea-dbaf3ee82546}

“I used to use a mix of airbrushing and powders on all of my models but after many years of practice, I’ve found that I much prefer using the airbrush. Even on tiny details you can get a good effect if you tune the airbrush with a finer nozzle and adjust the pressure. I do sometimes use powders for textured work but have found I end up just airbrushing over the top of them anyway. To make the model look as good as possible I always refer to prototype pictures and replicate them as closely as possible. That way you know that where you are putting dirt is a realistic location for where it would be in real life.” {#block-9d4029f8-f5b1-4696-83bf-de0626961879}

#### **THE FAVOURITE** {#block-3e60cc37-c476-400c-8883-5780487d54b8}

As with any layout, there will always be something deemed ‘the favourite’. For Dan, that’s a very special ModelU figure. {#block-9c3aa2f5-10cb-41c5-9089-1561e85d867d}

“If you look closely there’s a figure taking photographs of the fuel point from the corner of the car park. That’s a scan of my wife Katie, from which the layout gets its name, and that figure has been on every ‘Katie Lane TMD’ I’ve built. There have been a few before this one, but this is the only one I’ve finished!” {#block-f41aacc7-c5a8-4440-9664-d7bca6420f9c}

Not everybody will have the desire to build a model railway from start to finish in a matter of weeks, or pull all-nighters to get it done. If you do want a model railway without spending years on it though, then maybe putting everything you have into one over a short period of time is the way to go? Dan has since sold ‘Katie Lane TMD’ to make space for another layout, perhaps he will give himself more time to get this one finished! {#block-228e9920-29e2-43d1-a321-8ff3178047fa}

#### **FACTFILE: ‘KATIE LANE’** {#block-2c1b2b95-431a-490f-b00b-04e190c17f5b}

#### ABOUT THE MODELLER: DAN HUGHES {#block-80cfedf7-19a2-444c-a818-e270edd68b1c}

“I’ve recently got into offroading so could do with Oxford Diecast releasing some more 4x4 vehicles! I used to run a small weathering business but have had to put that to one side as a new job has meant I can’t put the time into it I once could.” {#block-84828bd5-7c33-483e-9f66-7df3ac92d4c8}

#### Almost 40 years in the making, **Phil Mason**’s ‘Ebridge’ covers his entire modelling life and has moved with him, and with the times. {#block-cafd7852-60d5-4354-bf7b-b5fa8f391e71}

Words: **Chris Gadsby** Photography**: Chris Nevard** Artwork: **Andrew Mackintosh** {#block-0a10613b-eade-42bc-ba81-dc23a0960a8f}

#### **What makes this layout great?** {#block-a5b218db-94d0-47b4-bcd5-3ab93a1a4236}

**“ ‘Ebridge’ has a legacy about it. This isn’t an exhibition layout where everything is perfectly modelled. It looks great, but Phil is able to look around the layout and recount modelling builds of years past that still find a home on ‘Ebridge’, a layout that covers his entire modelling life. ”** {#block-8e9d570e-6a64-4914-b02e-ad832e6c7c75}

For a lot of people, an impending house move would result in the dismantling of their precious model railway, perhaps to be rebuilt, perhaps never to have a locomotive run across it again. This is particularly the case when layouts are built permanently into a room and cutting up the baseboards would result in an irrecoverable mess. However, life finds a way, and Phil Mason has always found a way to get his layout ‘Ebridge’ from one house to the next, and then the next, and then the next! {#block-e80c3d79-cb61-4914-aa82-368334e15c11}

“Over the years the layout has been in six locations across four houses, before eventually finding what I hope will be a permanent home in my current loft. It started life in 1986 as a 9ft by 6ft layout in my terraced house and I’m still making alterations to it today. The concept has always been an ‘N’ gauge layout that would allow for both end-to-end running and a looped section in the same scene, which required a reversing loop. It was simple enough to do in ‘N’. The issue in the first house though was that I had a wrap-over section with the reversing loop hidden underneath the main station, which proved to be a nightmare whenever there was a problem as the whole station had to be lifted off. When I moved to my current home I put the layout in the loft but couldn’t lift the station off easily because of the roof trusses, and a 6ft wide layout proved to be too cramped, so I took the opportunity to widen it to 10ft. The lift off terminus station was then added as a ‘leg’ to one corner, giving me a total area of 18ft by 10ft.” {#block-6105021d-10a2-441e-8c38-6956f66dc00b}

**2** Phil has used an unusual technique to construct his cooling tower. Rather than buying a kit he has built it in the same way as his scenery, carving away at polystyrene until he got the right shape and then covering it with builder’s plaster.

To give you some indication of just how big ‘Ebridge’ is, Phil has calculated that to run a complete loop of the track from the terminus station, around the track and back again is 44 yards, a scale 3.75 mile run. There are 12 different terminals for freight traffic, two stations, two locomotive sheds and a DMU shed, 75 points and space for 24 trains at any one time, with a complete sequence of running taking four hours. No wonder it’s taken him almost four decades to complete. {#block-3fcd9d9a-b0a6-4207-b29e-b9ac2e188680}

“It’s now getting to the point where things are breaking as quickly as I can mend them or that technology is advancing so quickly that the old stock just isn’t compatible with modern couplings or the ‘pizza cutter’ wheelsets all need changing out. For this article I’ve elected to set ‘Ebridge’ in the year 2000, but that would have been 15 years in the future when I started. However, I have enough stock that I can run anything from the 1960s through to today with the introduction of Kato’s Class 800 to the layout. For me, that’s the best ‘N’ gauge model I own by far. It’s got plenty of power, can cope with less than perfect track and looks superb.” {#block-fbbd0ea8-2674-49ef-957d-0e144d7fe3b5}

**3** The working colour light signals are all connected to the track via relays. This means that as Phil removes or gives power to a piece of track, the signals will change accordingly.

Nothing is on ‘Ebridge’, be it stock or structure, without a purpose. Whether it’s transporting passengers or moving materials from one of the freight terminals to another, everything has its place and everything is sporting a well-worn appearance given to it by Phil. {#block-ef1793c9-6941-4726-8697-e51afd3d0b97}

“I have two methods for applying weathering to my models. In ‘N’ gauge I find trying to use an airbrush to be a waste of time as you can’t get a precise enough flow of paint for the tiny size of the models, so I do everything with a brush. Tamiya acrylics are my paints of choice with a little bit of weathering powder added in key locations at the end, but I either run a wash across the whole model so that the paint rests in all of the nooks and crannies, or dry brush paint onto the bits raised above the surface. There really is no right way, it’s just whatever feels best for that particular model.” {#block-046eb262-13e0-4696-95d1-ee386596c445}

### **3 things we like** {#block-6070fe10-e52c-4971-a1f0-8bdb73e919ac}

**1** Driving out is the easy bit, what about reversing in?

**2** The overhead gantry crane outside the wagon repair shop.

**3** The telegraph instruments and bells, built to resemble the equipment in a real signal box.

The scrapyard contains one of Phil’s most prized 3D-printed wagons. This was designed and printed by Paul Atkinson, a club member who sadly died of a heart attack a few years ago, shortly after gifting Phil a preliminary design of his wagon.

#### **MEMORY LANE** {#block-d8b9a1fb-fb6c-49b8-8e45-34acf64097c7}

“I’m not sure what this says about the improvement of my modelling over the past half century, but I built Ebridge station when I was a teenager and it is more than 50 years old! It has been on three different layouts and doesn’t look out of place at ‘Ebridge’, even now. I don’t know if that means I built it exceptionally well all those years ago or if I’ve not made anything better since!” {#block-4e19b40c-e046-459e-97fe-db41b62c3cc4}

The station is not the only old part of Phil’s layout, there’s some _Model Rail_ history on there as well. {#block-8dd740d5-0d11-452b-99f2-d56a9a143275}

“When _Model Rail_ was still a supplement in _Rail_, a paper wagon works kit was offered to readers in ‘OO’ gauge. I scanned it, scaled it down to ‘N’ gauge and wrapped it around a plastic card base to create the final structure. I then added some finer details and a modified crane from Knightwing to complete that area.” {#block-11a5e6f9-c314-432a-b95c-3d81ce1e1b2d}

#### **A TOUR OF EBRIDGE** {#block-13aeda6e-c840-42f0-ae4b-92c55d778635}

A trip around ‘Ebridge’ begins at Ashley Station junction, where nearly everything has been scratchbuilt apart from a very old Peco station roof and a couple of Metcalfe kits at the far side. Between the station and the junction is the steelworks. For this, Phil took inspiration from the Walthers kit, but this wouldn’t fit, so he made a 75% version out of plastic card to go alongside the oxygen plant and other large sheds. These have a base of suitably sized cardboard boxes, before also being covered in embossed plastic card or corrugated paper. Pipes have been created from various sprues. {#block-36d21df5-05a9-4b12-9b07-0d0219a5b2cb}

**10** The large mill above Lowerhouse is an old Metcalfe kit from before the windows were added as separate pieces. Phil has said that although he could take the building to another level realism-wise, it works as a piece of scenery and he has no desire to cut out all of those windows.

As the ninety-degree turn is made, trains pass the coal mine on the left-hand side. This has been ‘cobbled together’ in Phil’s words from various Walthers kits. {#block-0d33773c-1c72-4095-9cc7-dfaf45d4fde2}

“I wanted some sort of sense to the coal mine but it was difficult to find out how to arrange all of the parts and make it fit. After all, there was no template on the prototype. I felt the mine needed two winding gears, so used one from an underscale ‘OO’ kit and one from ‘N’ to add a bit of variety. As trains continue they pass the cement works on the right-hand side (another Walthers kit with a paper chimney tapered at one end), before making a left-hand turn at the power plant and by-passing Ebridge station.” {#block-39fdfd4d-51f3-446b-a365-aec9c94e6d92}

After trains have passed the station another left turn takes them past the scrapyard and stone quarry (another kit) on the right-hand side and a coke works on the left. A tunnel and scenic break is encountered before passing the coal mine again and into Ebridge station before arriving at Lowerhouse or carrying on to another tunnel which houses the reversing loop. This gives a run of around 22 yards in each direction. {#block-24f7457d-9731-49dd-8590-2c05b9168f0c}

“I don’t count the locomotive shed and modern depot as part of the 3.75 mile run as you can only access that area from the Lowerhouse branch line. In my universe the area is now owned by Northern, but that’s as much of a location placement as I’ve given the whole layout! I can run ‘Ebridge’ with either two operators or one. One person can operate Ashley Station Junction and the steelworks while the other does the main loop or I can sit in the middle of the loop and just watch trains. It is more of an operation layout than a looking-at layout so I can operate from the terminus station across the whole of the layout, it just gets a bit more complicated to keep an eye on.” {#block-b7c98cc2-f1f5-4906-b1d0-4c020d05b890}

Finally, trains pass through a tight cutting created from polystyrene and return to the coal mine. This is all leftover packaging from the last time Phil bought a washing machine, and he has covered it with a crumpled grass mat torn into smaller pieces and covered with additional details. {#block-ac555c3b-3da9-495c-84b9-a6d55bff51d1}

“I’ve avoided using static grass around ‘Ebridge’, finding I get much more control doing it by hand, especially with so many areas being too small to get a static grass machine to them with any real success. {#block-5a7057c2-8c15-4610-8321-6f2cbc81f0f1}

#### **ONE OF A KIND** {#block-71f028e7-2775-41e4-ad29-5e594a097805}

A rarely modelled side of steelworks is the various wagons required to move materials around the works. Phil purchased the Minitrix slag ladles from eBay, threw the box away, repainted them, and has never found any more since! The hot metal carrier was also a Minitrix model, but it was so huge that Phil chopped it into pieces, resin cast the bits he needed and put the castings together to make his carrier. After this, he visited Scunthorpe Works and discovered that not all of the molten metal carriers were torpedo-shaped, so he found a spare tank he had lying around and painted that to match. The metal and slag which has accumulated around the top of the wagon has been created from plastic filler. {#block-fb424d8c-db0c-45dd-8dd6-df354ddee139}

The signal bells on each of the control panels both contain a dial from Phil’s dad’s old stereo tape deck. With a couple of hidden resistors behind the box, Phil has been able to make the dials default back to normal after they have been turned either way.

#### **A LAYOUT IS NEVER FINISHED** {#block-b89195b2-b552-4e35-8093-d42b265a2781}

You could be forgiven for thinking that after nearly 40 years Phil’s layout would finally be completed, but of course there are always things to do. {#block-a5342d06-4db7-4ef4-98fc-d0e52d44c222}

“I made a rod for my own back really because when Chris came to photograph another one of my layouts ‘Derwenthorpe’ (MR326), I showed him ‘Ebridge’ looking for some advice on how to further improve it. The advice was given, followed by ‘I’ll be back in six months!’ As many modellers will tell you there’s nothing like a deadline to focus the mind, and I was up against it to paint the sides of all of the rails, populate the layout with more figures and add small details such as the Knightwing white metal parts at the DMU depot. I’m still looking to complete the signalling which I didn’t get done in time for the photographs. ‘Ebridge’ needs more working colour light signals. Those which are on the layout have been scratchbuilt with telephones, subsidiary shunt signals, theatre displays and number plates. The banner repeaters and minor details are from N Brass Locos, while the semaphore ground signals are from West Hill Wagon Works. Maybe one day I’ll get it finished!” {#block-e015ca3a-abc5-4fc8-a52a-0e7230c79e87}

We’re rather glad that Phil decided to split his layout into 10 boards, and improve on it house move after house move, or it wouldn’t be the stunning ‘N’ gauge work that it is today. Building a layout with the future in mind is always a good idea as none of us knows what life is going to throw at us, but in Phil’s case his house moves allowed him to not only keep ‘Ebridge’ but improve upon it. We hope for his sake though he doesn’t need to move house again! {#block-37b0fa71-b0ba-42df-8112-dd7676326c49}

#### **FACTFILE: ‘EBRIDGE’** {#block-220a1041-00d5-4d75-9e88-4bcd1f2d80db}

#### **ABOUT THE MODELLER: PHIL MASON** {#block-9d834b2c-bb83-4e95-9d89-11bbae04fd5a}

“I enjoy cycling a couple of times a week and have done the three peak cyclo-cross 20 times. I also spend my time gardening, listening to classical music and I’m ‘odd job man’ at a local church and community centre. Other than that I work on my various model railways. The hobby keeps the brain going!” {#block-f8126525-8f35-481d-83e4-5c90bf7b6e13}

**_To keep your precious models running in tip-top form, regular servicing is required. GEORGE DENT explains the ‘do’s and don’ts’ of lubrication._**

Like any machine, a model locomotive must be properly lubricated to avoid unnecessary wear and tear. Although models are well lubricated during assembly, prolonged use may lead to a degrading of the oils, while long-term storage may see the lubricants dry out completely.

Moreover, dirt and other contaminants are readily picked up from dusty layouts or trainsets, being captured and retained by sticky lubricants, so an occasional ‘spring clean’ of mechanisms is a good idea. This may only take a few minutes, with a dusting and a few drops of light oil to the axles all that’s required. Higher mileage models, however, may need a little extra TLC.

The design of the locomotive dictates how easily it can be serviced and modern models tend to keep the various gears and driveshafts protected from dirt ingress. Indeed, fitting protective covers to gear trains also helps to prevent the lubricants from leaking. In contrast, older RTR and most kit-built traction have all or part of the transmission exposed, meaning that regular cleaning and re-lubricating is essential.

Along with motors and gears, coupling rods and wheel bearings also benefit from a light oiling. Wherever possible, refer to the locomotive’s supplied instructions and follow the manufacturer’s recommended practice closely. If you don’t have the instructions, duplicates are freely available from manufacturers’ websites.

Choosing the right kind of oil is important - never use generic household oils - and they should be applied sparingly. There are plenty of options available, from RTR brands such as Dapol, Bachmann and Hornby, as well as Peco, Labelle and Woodland Scenics. Along with a light, thin oil, you’ll also need a thicker grease for gears. Electrically conductive lubricants are also useful for maintaining optimum performance.

Model oil or grease, mini screwdrivers, tweezers, swabs

The first job is to clean away dust and debris with a soft dry brush. If dirt is trapped in oil or grease on the chassis, dip a brush in iso-propyl alcohol or a proprietary model cleaning fluid before working it over the affected areas and allow to dry.

Next, give all of the wheels a deep clean with a swab dipped in track cleaning fluid. Treat the treads and the rear faces if power collecting ‘wipers’ bear onto them. This Trix wheel cleaner is handy for treating powered wheelsets, especially when lubricated with a track cleaning fluid.

It’s worth consulting the instructions or service sheet provided with a locomotive. This is likely to recommend where and when to lubricate the various moving parts, as well as showing how to remove the bodyshell. Duplicates can be obtained from most manufacturers’ websites.

One of the easiest oiling points is the axle bearings of each powered axle. A single drop of light oil, such as Labelle 108, onto each side of all axles will suffice. The oil will penetrate into the bearing as the axle turns.

Models with exposed gears below the chassis are convenient for servicing but can attract dust and dirt. After cleaning, apply a small drop of a thicker lubricant such as Hob-e-Lube’s Gear Lube (available from Bachmann stockists).

A single drop of light oil (such as Labelle 108) to each crank pin and coupling rod joint will reduce friction and promote smoother running. Put a drop on the slide bars and piston rods too, to ease them in their passage. This is where a needlepoint applicator really helps.

A drop of light oil onto the motor armature shaft bearings - at each end of the motor - will keep the motor running freely. Use the oil sparingly, to prevent ingress into the motor itself. The oil will penetrate the bearing naturally.

Check that all gears are free from dirt or dust fibres. A small spreading of the Gear Lube on the worm drive will be sufficient. As the motor is run, the lubricant will be spread throughout the gearbox, leaving a thin film on the working surfaces.

Where long gear trains are employed, especially in diesel and electric outline models, a few extra drops of Gear Lube can be distributed, after removing the access panels. These commonly unclip from the base of the bogie frames.

Any electrical contacts, such as these beneath a Dapol Class 67, can be cleaned and lubricated at the same time with a drop of Peco Power-Lube. It’s worth re-cleaning the wheels before test-running the locomotive, to remove any errant traces of oil or grease.

A rolling road allows locomotives to be test-run on the workbench or an accessible part of the layout. This makes it easier for us to identify any faults and make adjustments. This set of individual axle cradles is from the DCCconcepts range and they can be adjusted to suit various gauges and take their power from the direct from a layout’s rails.

#### With an urge to recreate a fleet of shabby private owner wagons for the BR steam era, **George Dent** seeks to create a greater sense of texture to plastic bodyshells. {#block-cf04d799-c1fb-41d4-b3be-c09b0302c8ff}

PHOTOGRAPHY: **GEORGE DENT** {#block-49983f03-b4e2-476f-9925-e81d55cbf6d9}

Recent years have seen an explosion in the availability of high-quality ‘OO’ private owner mineral wagons, with a vast range of colourful liveries and branding offered from various manufacturers. It’s a far cry from the turn of the Millennium, as evinced in an article I unearthed by renowned wagon expert Paul Bartlett, in the February 2000 issue of _Model Rail_. {#block-f7513e90-f7a0-4967-aec8-e0a74c9a029a}

Back then, the release of Bachmann Branchline’s ‘Blue Riband’ private owner wagons ushered in a step-change from the previous RTR offerings, followed over a decade later by newly tooled Hornby products, plus the great value offerings from Oxford Rail. Each of these are still available today, but the emergence of Rapido Trains UK’s stable of pre-Grouping-era rolling stock has added even more variety, in terms of prototypes and colour schemes. {#block-d2dd588e-fda3-44fb-85ad-b93f17c83d77}

Therefore, we’re now spoilt for choice, and no longer rely on building kits if, like me, you’re a bit of a wagon nerd and want extra realism. That said, no matter how well detailed and finished the aforementioned wagons are, they still present an overly uniform appearance, thanks to the injection moulded plastic bodyshells. {#block-006d6475-d0d5-4c07-8e48-f3c250d647cf}

This was brought home to me while building Peco’s new ‘NG7’ narrow gauge wagon kits, rendered in laser-cut wood (see last month’s issue). Even after painting, the wood grain texture of the components remains visible. {#block-bdf99acc-da26-4dff-8816-03e1a3202068}

Latest on Model Rail

Latest Magazine

Latest Online Features