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How effective are Noch’s latest Gras-Master 4.0 tools? **Peter Marriott** road-tests these innovative devices and compares them to their predecessor.

Electrostatic grass adds authentic texture to scenic areas, especially when used in conjunction with other products, such as poly fibres and foam bushes.

Last year marked the 20th anniversary of Noch’s electrostatic grass planting tools and, to celebrate the milestone, the German manufacturer launched two new products: the Gras-Master 4.0 and Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI.

Both tools are now rechargeable, in contrast to the previous need for a 9V or several AA batteries. Instead, a separate cable is supplied with a USB-C port fitted to the tool and a USB-A connector for a power source, which is not supplied. Suitable USB power packs are available from Amazon and several other retailers.

After testing both products extensively over the past year, I thought it would be useful to share my experiences. But first, for those new to the chat, here’s a summary of how electrostatic grass-planting tools work…

The system employs a hand-held electronic device that creates a high-voltage electrostatic field between the tool and the scenery. The baseboard surface needs to be linked to the tool in order to complete the necessary circuit, so a grounding clip and wire are provided, which can be attached to a nearby rail or, preferably, a steel nail temporarily inserted into the scenic base. It helps if this nail is driven into an area of wet PVA glue.

A selection of plastic grass fibres (available in many different colours and lengths) is placed inside the tool and, when power is switched on, they become energised with a static charge. Gently shaking the tool over the prepared scenic area, which has been covered in a layer of wet adhesive, allows the fibres to pass through a metal sieve screen, which prevents clumping and allows the ‘grass’ to land in an upright fashion, thanks to the electrostatic polarity between the tool and the base.

The results can look spectacular, especially when various fibre shades and lengths are blended. It’s certainly a far cry from the coloured sawdust of yesteryear, and much less hassle than dealing with teddy bear fur and other similar materials.

The rechargeable feature is certainly an improvement over earlier battery-operated tools, and I find it takes around 3-4 hours to achieve a full charge from empty. There’s a handy LED on the base of the tool to alert the user if the power is flagging. It shows red when the charge is failing and green when fully juiced up and ready for use.

The Gras-Master 4.0 generates around 15kV of static charge, while the Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI has an adjustable output of between 11-20kV, controlled via a dial on the base of the tool. In comparison, the battery-operated Gras-Master 3.0 generates a maximum of 11kV.

The new tools have a useful stand built into the body so they can be stood safely on the workbench, removing the risk of them rolling off onto the floor. One of my earlier Gras-Masters did just that, so I can see this is a worthwhile change.

Earlier Noch Gras-Masters featured a single built-in fibre container, fixed to the top of the tool. This meant that the interchangeable sieve covers (which separate the fibres as they fall out of the tool) needed to be removed from the container before the fibres could be topped up or changed.

Now, the containers themselves are designed to twist on and off the tool, allowing them to be filled on the workbench, making the job less fiddly. It also raises the possibility of loading several containers with fibres of varying lengths and colours, which can be switched over as necessary, speeding up the treatment of larger areas. Of course, such a strategy would require buying a few extra containers (only one is supplied), but it’s worth considering if you – or your club – are working on larger layout projects.

As is common with these tools, both Noch Gras-Master 4.0 devices feature a cable and crocodile clip to connect to the baseboard to complete the necessary ‘circuit’, allowing the electromagnetic field to be created. Usefully, this cable is now red, which differentiates it from the black charging cable. The cable is very flexible and less unwieldy compared to the ones fitted to earlier tools, and I found it easier to work with.

Additionally, there are now detailing accessories plus a fibre container for dealing with large areas of grass. So, this can be seen as a whole new grass planting range, rather than just another updated tool. In fact, it represents a significant step-change for Noch’s Gras-Master system, one of the biggest since its introduction in 2005.

I pitted the new Noch Gras-Master 4.0 and 4.0 PROFI against the previous 3.0 device, in each case using a blend of Woodland Scenics 4mm, 7mm and 12mm grass fibres, planted into Woodland Scenics Static-Tac adhesive, which is specially formulated for this purpose. I chose not to evaluate the tools with 2mm grass fibres, because any tool would plant these short fibres easily.

All of the tests were done within 30 minutes of each other, and the adhesive was painted onto pieces of cardboard at the same time to make the tests as fair as possible.

On a full charge, the Gras-Master 4.0 can plant grass for up to 4 hours continuously. The tool has a simple on/off switch, and the device worked well with 4mm and 7mm grass fibres, although it didn’t do quite as well as the PROFI tool with 12mm fibres.

That said, I have still to find any electrostatic grass planting tool that plants 12mm fibres satisfactorily. In my experience, these long fibres tend to droop once planted and, in truth, I tend to avoid using them wherever possible. I find it much better to build up multiple layers of shorter grass fibres, which tend to perform better.

The Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI can plant grass for between 3 and 10 hours, depending on the voltage setting. The rotary voltage switch is easy to operate, and I tested the PROFI tool using 7mm fibres with low, medium and high settings. On the high (20kV) power setting, the fibres clearly performed better than on the lowest (11kV) position, with the more intense electrostatic field ensuring more of the fibres stood upright. Indeed, the fibres audibly sizzled and zinged as they left the sieve on full power!

In contrast, my older Gras-Master 3.0 (released in 2020) uses eight 1.5Volt AA-type batteries and is not rechargeable like the two other tools. Compared to the other two models, it performed poorly, with very few of either the 7mm or 12mm fibres standing vertically once the adhesive had dried. That said, the batteries were some months old, but replacing eight AA batteries at a time is not that cheap.

Although around £80 more expensive than the regular Gras-Master 4.0, a model club or professional layout builder may find the 4.0 PROFI kit preferable, thanks to the overall package, which includes a standard interchangeable fibre container, plus a larger (XL) flock container and a Detail Flocker, each of which has matching sieves (coarse, medium, fine) for different grass fibre lengths. The PROFI kit also comes with a handy carry bag providing easy transportation and storage of the tool and various components. Flock Change Containers are available separately for both the Gras-Master 4.0 and 4.0 PROFI (product ref. 60127, £21.50), complete with bayonet locks for quick changes between fibre colours and sizes. The transparent container allows the user to keep an eye on how much material remains and comes with three sieves for different fibre lengths.

The Gras-Master 4.0 Detail Flocker add-on unit (ref. 60128, £32.50) is also available separately, along with the XL Flock Container (ref. 60129, £38.00), as provided with the 4.0 PROFI set. The Detail Flocker is great for reaching into awkward corners of a layout or between structures and trees, while the large capacity of the XL container reduces the need to keep refilling the device when treating larger areas.

Another Noch accessory worth considering is the set of Grass Stamps (ref. 60137, £32.50), supplied as a pair: one large and one small, plus an adhesive tray in which to dip them. The idea is to create random patches of wet glue on the surface, into which grass fibres can be planted, thus avoiding an overly uniform appearance. Noch’s range is available from most model shops and online retailers and, with a bit of shopping around, savings can be made on the standard retail prices.

A sizeable investment for modellers they may be, but Noch has poured two decades’ worth of research and development into their latest generation of electrostatic grass planting tools – and it shows.

◆ Noch 60120 Gras-Master 4.0  
**Price:** £205.00

◆ Noch 60125 Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI  
**Price:** £285.00  
**Availability:** Noch stockists or Gaugemaster  
**Web:** _:a[www.noch.com]{href='https://noch.com' target='_blank' rel='noopener'}, :a[www.gaugemasterretail.com]{href='https://gaugemasterretail.com' target='_blank' rel='noopener'}_

**1** The new Noch tools feature interchangeable grass fibre containers. Two different sizes are supplied with the 4.0 PROFI, and a single container is supplied with the 4.0 tool.

**2** Here, the container has been filled with 4mm grass fibres before the appropriate sieve filter is attached. I’ve used the medium-sized sieve. The sieves are a simple screw fit.

**3** The containers slot into place in the main device with bayonet-style fittings. Two white ‘pips’ on the stem of the tool must align with two dimples on the grass fibre container.

**4** Here, the grass carrying container is firmly fixed to the tool with the white ‘pip’ in position holding the container in the correct spot ready to plant grass fibres.

**5** Applying a little grass glue to the landscape. It is better not to paint glue over the entire surface to create patchy, more realistic looking grass and weeds.

**6** Attaching the alligator clip on the tool to a steel nail located near the wet PVA-type glue. This helps to create the necessary circuit, allowing the electrostatic grass to be planted effectively.

**7** A green light indicates it has sufficient power available for operation. It turns red when the tool needs to be recharged. This is the PROFI tool, with adjustable power control.

**8** With the tool switched on, you gently move it over the area of wet glue, depositing the fibres into place. The electrostatic charge forces the fibres to stand upright.

**9** The finished results, showing the advantage of mixing up slightly different shades of and lengths of fibres. Building up successive layers of fibres adds even more texture.

Electrostatic grass planting tools are not recommended for use by children under 14, and safety instructions should be studied before use. Do not touch the internal contact surfaces when the tool is switched on, and use the tool in line with the instructions, especially with regard to periods of continuous operation.

If you have an implanted electronic medical device, such as a pacemaker, it is wise to consult a doctor before operating an electrostatic grass planting tool due to the strong electromagnetic field created.

Full operating and safety manuals for each tool can be downloaded for free from the Noch website, _:a[www.noch.com]{href='https://noch.com' }_

● Several worthwhile improvements for both tools, especially the ability to recharge them rather than buy new batteries.

● The carry case for the PROFI tool is handy for storing the tool and its accessories safely.

● Cheaper grass planting tools are available.

● Buying additional grass fibre containers will increase costs.

● Having the power switch on the base of the tool takes some getting used to.

The Detail Flocker, supplied with the 4.0 PROFI versions, is a long, flexible extension to the Gras-Master, ideal for reaching into tight spots on a layout. It’s also available as an optional extra for the Gras-Master 4.0.

Noch’s first Gras-Master tool arrived in 2005 and transformed the model scenic landscape, making it easier to achieve lifelike results.

The new Noch Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI package comes in a handy bag and comes complete with a range of accessories, including a Detail Flocker attachment, interchangeable fibre containers and various sieve filters.

The separate, interchangeable fibre containers allow them to be filled away from the tool and the clear material makes it clear when a refill is needed.

Different sieve filters can be swapped over to suit different fibre lengths and prevent clumping of the material as it leaves the tool.

Noch released its latest Gras-Master 4.0 tool in 2025, which does away with the need for separate batteries in favour of a USB-charged power pack. Note the convenient stand incorporated into the handle to prevent it rolling onto the floor (it happens!).

Featuring an adjustable voltage control, the output of Noch’s Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI can be tailored to suit the size and quantity of grass fibres to be planted.

The XL container, supplied with Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI and optional for the regular 4.0 tool, is perfect for treating wide open spaces and farm fields.

Both new tools are supplied with USB charging cables and take up to 4 hours to restore to full power once the power has run out. LED status lights help the user know how much ‘juice’ remains.

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One of **George Dent’s** favourite diesel types gets the weathering treatment…

I’ve written before in _Model Rail_ about my childhood affinity for the BR Class 31s, as they were a daily sight in my locality, heading expresses to and from Liverpool Lime Street, hauling Speedlink freight services or busily shuffling engineers wagons.

Never the most glamorous or popular of BR’s classic diesels, the Brush Type 2s nonetheless proved their worth on a diverse range of tasks, with many operational in preservation and the odd main line-registered example still continuing to provide useful service.

Having owned model ‘31s’ from Hornby-Dublo, Airfix and Lima during my youth, I’ve had plenty of experience in detailing and upgrading work, as well as dealing with temperamental power units. Hornby’s updated model from the mid-2000s was a significant upgrade, but the new releases from Bachmann and Accurascale in 2024 raised the bar even higher. With a few examples of the Accurascale model in my collection, from both the original production run and this year’s follow-up batch (featuring a few key improvements), I’ve been dying to find the time to give them a weathered finish and a few embellishments.

The Class 31s suited the original BR Railfreight livery well, with the later ‘red stripe’ version adding vibrancy.

Happily, a bit of unexpected spare time over the summer allowed me to tinker with a trio of the Type 3s: one of the original Mirrlees-powered Class 30s in green livery, plus a pair of Railfreight grey Class 31s in post-1980 refurbished condition.

In the October issue, I explained how 31301 was renumbered to the one-off 31327 _Phillips-Imperial_, recapturing some fond childhood memories of the real locomotive and an old Lima model I received for my 15th birthday.

Another regular childhood spot was ‘skinhead’ 31110, often seen pootling about Arpley Yard, which Accurascale kindly produced in their initial batch (thanks guys!), so at least I didn’t have to re-number this one too.

At the time of writing, several models from Accurascale’s second Class 30/31 production run are still available from retailers or direct from the manufacturer’s website.

Apart from the change of identity for 31327, the lion’s share of work involved weathering and adding the supplied optional detail fittings. The only new items required were footplate crew, which were a mix of Modelu and Preiser figures, painted in period-specific uniform colours and installed into the cabs. Talking of which, I spent time giving the interiors a grimy, careworn appearance to match the exteriors and allow the superb level of detail to be more visible.

I aimed to show the Railfreight locomotives in the kind of condition I recall from my early teen years, as captured in what primitive photographs I have from the time. Generally, the sides and ends of the body were fairly clean, but with plenty of ingrained dirt trapped within all the various recesses and seams. Those characterful front ends, with the set of inset steps and plated-over door panels, naturally attracted a lot of detritus during their operational life. Roofs and underframes would be noticeably grimier.

In the case of D5501, in its 1960s condition, I went for a slightly heavier coating of dirt on the body, acknowledging the fact that it was likely operating alongside steam traction and collecting more in the way of soot and coal dust.

George’s customised ‘31’ depicts a unique named example from the late 1980s.

Much of the work was achieved with my favoured enamel weathering washes, which settle effectively into and around surface relief and can be manipulated and removed with ease, with dry cotton swabs or rags or, if necessary, with a matching formula of enamel thinners. I always use a specific enamel wash thinners, not paint thinners. Wash thinners are formulated to be milder and less likely to remove or damage underlying paint.

Do test the washes on an inconspicuous area first. I find Bachmann models in particular are susceptible to enamel weathering washes, and I’ve inadvertently removed printed logos and numbers during weathering (see MR352). In the case of these Accurascale models, however, there were no issues with the MIG and AMMO enamel washes.

With the Railfreight duo ready for service, I can turn my attention to a couple of BR blue ‘31/4s’ waiting patiently for their turn in the queue. As I write (in late September), a handful of versions of Accurascale’s latest Class 31 batch were still listed on the manufacturer’s website and across a number of retailers, albeit in limited numbers.

I for one am eagerly awaiting Accurascale’s third batch, which is due early next year, with another interesting Railfreight-liveried ‘31’ among the line-up.

◆ MIG/AMMO enamel weathering washes and thinners, masking tapes, cotton swabs, glue  
**Availability:** Scale Model Shop  
**Web:** _:a[www.scalemodelshop.co.uk]{href='https://scalemodelshop.co.uk' target='_blank' rel='noopener'}_

◆ RailMatch enamel paints and thinners, Deluxe Materials Glue ‘n’ Glaze and Track Magic  
**Availability:** Gaugemaster  
**Web:** _:a[www.gaugemasterretail.com]{href='https://gaugemasterretail.com' target='_blank' rel='noopener'}_

◆ Modelling knife and spare blades  
◆ Tweezers  
◆ Fine-nose pliers  
◆ Drill and bits  
◆ Paintbrushes  
◆ Cotton swabs and rags  
◆ Airbrush and accessories  
◆ Low-tack masking tapes

**1** Fresh from the box, the Accurascale Class 31 looks great. But I don’t recall seeing the real 31s anywhere near this clean, so a weathering job was a must. Extra details are supplied, but I’ll fit them later.

**2** First task is to remove the bodyshell, which is a simple clip fit that can be released with the aid of a plastic glue spreader inserted between body and chassis in the centre of each side. There are no fiddly wires to unplug. Joy!

**3** A quick reminder that I customised one of my Accurascale ‘31s’ last month, giving 31301 a new identity as the unique 31327. New decals came from Railtec and etched nameplates from Fox Transfers. See how it was done in MR357.

**4** Weathering began by creating a dirty brown shade of weathering wash using MIG/AMMO enamel washes, brushed over a section of the body at a time and allowing it to begin drying (it starts turning to a matte sheen).

**5** With a small piece of cotton rag (an old shirt is ideal), I began wiping away the bulk of the wash in vertical strokes relative to the body, leaving the dark pigment within the grilles and louvres, door seams and other recesses.

**6** Enamel washes take hours to dry completely, so you have plenty of time to keep wiping with the rag until the desired effect is achieved. Switch to a clean rag as soon as it becomes clogged. Subtle streaking effects can be created.

**7** The process was repeated around the body sides and ends, one at a time. The ends of a ‘31’ are ideal for this, thanks to the recessed steps and panel seams.

**8** As you can see, most of the wash was removed, leaving the pigment to enhance the surface detail and introduce some subtle shading. Cotton buds were used on the cabs, as a rag could damage the finer details.

**9** With the sides and ends treated, the wash was brushed over the roof, working it into the panel seams, before wiping most of it away with a rag, working laterally so any remaining streaks look like weather staining induced by gravity.

**10** The rag removed the bulk of the excess wash, but cotton swabs are better for creating more subtle effects, especially over the cab roofs. Note the dark staining retained around the horn vent and within the gutter rail.

**11** The red bufferbeams were treated with the wash, allowing the pigment to settle in all the nooks and crannies. The detail, especially on the buffershanks, now begins to ‘pop’. This is easier to do now before brake pipes are installed.

**12** The pristine red fan is visible through the rooftop grille, so it needed toning down with some of the weathering wash blend, leaving pigment between the blades.

**13** Accurascale did a fantastic job of modelling the cab interiors, and they look even better with the aid of the weathering wash, brushed on and wiped away, thus enhancing all that lovely detail. Cabs were seldom spotless.

**14** Now’s a good time to install the bufferbeam detail if suitable for your layout. A few of the mounting holes needed re-drilling slightly to allow a good fit for the brake hoses. Cyano glue holds them securely.

**15** Airbrushing will follow to add extra finesse to the weathering, so masking the interior and exterior of the cab glazing will protect it from overspray. Use a low-tack, model-friendly tape to avoid damaging the paintwork or glazing.

**16** These models were spotless straight from the box, but if you see any traces of oil or grease, especially on the underframe, clean it away. Track Magic is ideal for this and is safe on most paint finishes too – but test it first, just in case!

**17** After thinning some RailMatch enamel Frame Dirt down to the consistency of skimmed milk, I set my compressor to around 15psi and loaded the airbrush. A fine mist was sprayed around the underframe.

**18** The Frame Dirt was also sprayed in a fine mist along the lower edges of the body, with the airbrush angled upwards to mimic how real dirt would be sprayed up from the rails. Subtlety was the aim, so the sprayed paint layer is minimal.

**19** Moving to RailMatch Roof Dirt, I added some darker shading around the underframe and then moved to the body, aiming a very fine mist along the shoulder of the roof, following the white cant rail-level stripe.

**20** Working from above the model, the Roof Dirt paint was sprayed – again in a fine mist – around the various roof panels, walkways and the fan grille. Supporting your spraying hand with your other hand helps keep the airbrush steady.

**21** The final element in the airbrushing stage was a concentrated mist of RailMatch Weathered Black around the exhaust outlets, feathering the spray to suggest a diffusion of sooty deposits in both directions.

**22** A welcome feature of Accurascale’s latest ‘31’ production run is the addition of interior detail to the chassis block, visible through the side windows, so I picked this out with a spot of dry-brushing with acrylic paints.

**23** I distressed the weathered radiator fan with the tip of an artist’s graphite pencil, suggesting chipped paint on the blades and boss. Similar effects can be achieved with drybrushed metallic paint (a gunmetal shade works well).

**24** Be careful when removing the masking tape from the outside of the windscreens, as one of the wipers was dislodged on my model. I took the opportunity to fix it back in place (with Glue ‘n’ Glaze) in a different position to add variety.

**25** It’s essential to ensure the wheels are clean, especially after weathering. Track Magic cleaning fluid removes paint and contaminants with the aid of swabs. For non-DCC models, a 9V battery will power the mechanism.

**26** The finishing touch to the weathered cab interiors is a set of footplate crew. I employed a mix of Modelu and Preiser figures, painted in appropriate shades and fixed into place with a heavy-duty cyano glue for a reliable bond.

**27** Once everything was fully dry (I allowed the fumes from the cyano glue used on the footplate crew 24 hours to evaporate), the bodies were refitted and any areas touched up by hand, as necessary.

**28** The green Class 30 needed the disc headcodes fitted. These had been pre-weathered with the enamel washes and were installed with Glue ‘n’ Glaze adhesive, making them easier to remove in future without damaging the paintwork.

In its original, Mirrlees-powered Class 30 form, Accurascale’s model really comes alive after a weathering job.

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Peter Marriott dons his high-vis tabard to trial a new method of road-building, complete with pavements and driveways.

I have built lots of roads over the years in model form, as many of us have, and each time I like to try different methods and materials – with the goal that, hopefully, I am working towards the perfect road in 4mm scale.

Several years ago, I acquired a Noch Road Construction Set (stock no. 60820) that has been quite literally shelved, waiting for an opportunity to come along for me to experiment with it. It offers a unique way of creating model roads and contains fine asphalt granules in an applicator, a refill pack of asphalt granules, and grey acrylic road paint. The contents of the set can make an 8cm wide road with a length of 3m.

Using the kit is a stage-by-stage approach: brush white glue onto the road area; use the sprinkler to spread an even layer of tiny asphalt granules onto the wet glue; then leave the surface to dry. Excess granules can be brushed away and reused later. Once the glue has fully dried, you can paint the road with the supplied grey paint, which also seals in the granules.

The road can be finished with matching street markings, such as those found in the Noch Starter Set Street Markings, number 60740, which contains a street marking pen, a curved ruler, and road marking templates. I used a watercolour pencil and a steel ruler to make the central dotted lines.

Over the past year, I have found that one of the quickest and cheapest methods for making pavements on various scales is 2mm mounting cardboard cut to size, scribed with a sharp blade, then painted and fixed to the baseboard. The step-by-step process only requires a few basic tools, plus some acrylic paint and white glue. It enables any type of pavement to be made to your bespoke choice of paving slab.

As a final note, road furniture goes a long way to setting the scene, also helping to define the time period that a layout is intended to represent. For this project, I have added a post box and street lamp by EFE and Scenecraft.

As well as those mentioned here, there are various products available to replicate pavements, including:

◆ Bachmann Scenecraft’s straight and curved pavement pieces, _:a[www.bachmann.co.uk]{href='https://bachmann.co.uk' }_

◆ Superquick’s paper sheets of paving slabs and kerbstones that can be glued onto mounting card, _:a[www.superquick.co.uk]{href='https://superquick.co.uk' }_

◆ Wills has several types of paving in its materials range for ‘OO’ scale. These plastic sheets are about 2mm thick and need to be joined end-on-end with model filler to disguise the joins. _:a[www.peco-uk.com]{href='https://peco-uk.com' }_

◆ Metcalfe Models’ paving slabs are available for both ‘N’ and ‘OO’ gauges. They come in self-adhesive cardboard slabs, sold in sheets with slabs of various sizes; the kerbstones are pre-cut. Laying the slabs is relatively straightforward, good fun, and very satisfying once the job is complete. _:a[www.metcalfemodels.com]{href='https://metcalfemodels.com' }_

◆ Scalescenes enables you to print pavements on your home PC and printer and, once you have bought the PDF, you can use it over and over again. These need to be fixed to mounting cardboard, _:a[www.scalescenes.com]{href='https://scalescenes.com' }_

◆ Mounting cardboard  
◆ Noch Road Construction Set No. 60820  
**Web:** _:a[www.noch.com]{href='https://noch.com' target='_blank' rel='noopener'}_  
◆ White watercolour crayon  
◆ HB pencil  
◆ Brown and grey watercolour crayons  
◆ PVA adhesive  
◆ Noch Grass Glue and Grass  
**Web:** _:a[www.noch.com]{href='https://noch.com' }_  
◆ Black and grey acrylic paints

◆ Selection of flat paintbrushes  
◆ A craft knife with a new blade  
◆ Steel ruler  
◆ Self-sealing cutting board

**1** I used Woodland Scenics’ Foam Putty to cover the indentations in the baseboard, which was made from a one-inch-thick sheet of Woodland Scenics Foam.

**2** I used a piece of mounting cardboard to apply the Foam Putty, and then, as soon as the paste had fully dried, I used fine sandpaper to remove slight imperfections on the surface.

**3** The basic toolkit for making the pavement is a cutting board, craft knife, steel ruler, abrasive stick, white glue, and various paintbrushes for applying the adhesive and the paint.

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